Total beginner

[antus]

Its probably kalmaker as they mostly ship with the 1230 nvram. You probably will need to add the aldl wire to the loom from the computer plug to the obd2 port. You'll also need an aldl interface. Once you have that you should be able to key on (but dont start incase there is some really dumb timing on there) and then connect with vl400s flash tool. It should be able to ID the tune and download the bin. If its kalmaker street pro 3 you will be able to work with it with an xdf and adx for here. For the most part treat it like 12p but use the right definitions. Its probably still worth getting a gq4x so you can recover any corruption should you need to later on, or swap to 12p.

[j_ds_au]

The VR ECU/PCM has 8192 baud 5V ALDL/OBD1 built in. All you need to add is a 16 pin (OBD2-style) connector, wire it per a VR, and you should be able to talk to it with a standard 16 pin ALDL interface "cable". You'll need to check all your other ECU/PCM pin connections against the VR, no doubt some re-pinning will be required.

Joe.

[Delco Learner]

Couple of pics showing the ROM/RAM setup, and the write enable wire, I believe.

[antus]

Thats one of the dodgy ebay ones that were being sold a while ago. Chances are high that its a $1 nvram clone, with regular battery which doesnt last as long or cope well with high cabin temperatures. It may work, but I would keep a spare memcal that can run the car in the glovebox incase it decides to stop one day.

The resistor will be a hack to change the number of cylinder configuration. See here for the internal values: http://pcmhacking.net/forums/viewtopic. ... 100#p53167 you might be able to work out what it was and what it is now. If the knock board code starts with 1F its a v8 knock board. If it doesnt its V6. Probably the resistor has converted it roughly to V8, but this doesnt change the knock board so knock detect must be disabled if this kind of hack is in place.

If its 12P already, you can use the flash tool to sus out what version, and then use that version of 12P with it. If its a new enough 12P you can update the version with the flashtool over ALDL but that is not commonly done and may not be worth the risk.

[Delco Learner]

Hi, I managed to connect to the ECU after the third attempt at making an ALDL connector cable.
Using the flashtool by VL400 (OSE Enhanced Flash tool) I could see that it was already using 12P ver 111.
Armed with this info, I was able to download the bin to my PC and open it in TunerPro.

MY VRECU BIN.bin

(32 KiB) Downloaded 195 times

Wow, this bin had been modded to h***.
Plugged it in to the car and went for a drive. It would fall flat on its face at 4500 rpm, and go nowhere.
After uploading the APNX bin that came in the 12p 111 package, car no longer falls over and keeps pulling.
SO so far it seems to be working ok.

[antus]

Yeah, so many dodgy tunes out there! Maybe you should go back and get the car you pulled the ECU from, chances are its perfectly fine.... lol.

[Holden202T]

Yeah, so many dodgy tunes out there! Maybe you should go back and get the car you pulled the ECU from, chances are its perfectly fine.... lol.

[Delco Learner]

So I've been playing around with the $12P (Ver 111) that works with the chip I have.
I've been trying to set it up EXACTLY the same as the ATFY factory chip I have, as that worked quite well, But I reckon theres room for improvement.

Ive copied across the spark and fuel maps, and filled in the extra values in the fuel so that they fill smoothly.

However, I just cant seem to get it to behave 100%. Its either a bit 'stumbly' or it smells really rich.

What areas in the scalars/flags should I need to change?

[HQ355]

Have you got a wideband hooked up ? Much easier to tune with one

[Dylan]

Check the AE values. Although that is harder as it's calculated differently on the older code.
Alsocheck the injector rate to.

Post up the new bin you've done.