A minor annoyance was the throttle pedal being a bit too light, made a little spacer that adds some tension to the springs which made quite a difference.
Even drove it to work a couple of times this week.
Torana SS
Re: Torana SS
Have been driving it a little and tweaking the tune to be close before turning on all of the closed loop settings. Most of it was adapted from what I had on the Delco which seems to have been a reasonable starting point. I kind of miss having the tablet to display some ECU info but figured out how to program the check engine light to come on momentarily under lean conditions for safety. Also having onboard logging is great, thinking I might add a switch so I can turn it on and off on demand.
A minor annoyance was the throttle pedal being a bit too light, made a little spacer that adds some tension to the springs which made quite a difference.
Even drove it to work a couple of times this week.
A minor annoyance was the throttle pedal being a bit too light, made a little spacer that adds some tension to the springs which made quite a difference.
Even drove it to work a couple of times this week.
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Holden202T
- Posts: 10311
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Re: Torana SS
its not often people say the pedal is too light! 
No matter what the question is, the answer is always more horsepower! 
Just starting out? Have a read of the getting started guide
Basic tuning of a delco ECM with $12P thread
Advanced tuning of a delco ECM with $12P thread
Just starting out? Have a read of the getting started guide
Basic tuning of a delco ECM with $12P thread
Advanced tuning of a delco ECM with $12P thread
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vlad01
- Posts: 7830
- Joined: Mon Oct 08, 2012 6:41 pm
- cars: VP I S
VP I executive
VP II executive
VP II executive #2
VR II executive - Location: Kyneton, Vic
Re: Torana SS
I guess it's what ever your used to and prefer. I like light pedal personally.
I've realized that I dislike modern brakes, from the operator side of things, not the actual stopping power.
To me, I can't stand the delay of the modern car's brake pedal to go down to the point the brakes start working, it's like a gas strut is connected to the pedal, the harder and faster you hit the pedal, the more resistance is met so you still have that delay no matter what and is super awkward and jerky to drive for me, like a similar bunny hopping I get from DBW, but in the brakes too. It goes: Nothing... NOTHING... NEARLY GOES THROUGH WINDSCREEN!
The old Commodores prior to VT have a very low effort pedal and fast reacting booster and a lot of travel, so it's similar in the way you can jump on them quick and modulate them with ease like the old cars pre booster days, but with booster assistance obviously.
It's like the newer cars have very slow but strong boosters that take a good fraction of a sec to fully depress regardless of pedal force.
After talking to Hopper's stoppers in person last year, they said any upgrade, whether VT or their 4 pot/6 pot option, if I like more travel and easy pedal effort, then the stock master and booster is the way to go and the VT booster/master will be a downgrade, a 1" will compensate the travel increase a bit but there isn't much in it either way they reckon. The VT booster just changes the feel to be that short travel/harder feel that most prefer but won't add anything meaningful to the stopping power as that is 90% determined by the brakes at the wheels. Was interesting having heard that as I suspected as much, it's a personal preference things more than anything and very much against the grain of what the internet suggests.
Also, this sponginess the old commodores are famous for, comes from the booster ballooning and the bracket on the tower flexing like a MF as a result, I videoed it, while using my brakes. They were absolutely spot on! flexes by 10 or more mm. Upgrading the bracket to a much thicker one apparently is the way to go, but I am sus about straining the mount on the tower and cracking the metal over time. I already had the intake pipe mount rip a big section of metal out of the tower, leaving a hole I can see the wheel through
Anyway, there is my long story long tangent.
I've realized that I dislike modern brakes, from the operator side of things, not the actual stopping power.
To me, I can't stand the delay of the modern car's brake pedal to go down to the point the brakes start working, it's like a gas strut is connected to the pedal, the harder and faster you hit the pedal, the more resistance is met so you still have that delay no matter what and is super awkward and jerky to drive for me, like a similar bunny hopping I get from DBW, but in the brakes too. It goes: Nothing... NOTHING... NEARLY GOES THROUGH WINDSCREEN!
The old Commodores prior to VT have a very low effort pedal and fast reacting booster and a lot of travel, so it's similar in the way you can jump on them quick and modulate them with ease like the old cars pre booster days, but with booster assistance obviously.
It's like the newer cars have very slow but strong boosters that take a good fraction of a sec to fully depress regardless of pedal force.
After talking to Hopper's stoppers in person last year, they said any upgrade, whether VT or their 4 pot/6 pot option, if I like more travel and easy pedal effort, then the stock master and booster is the way to go and the VT booster/master will be a downgrade, a 1" will compensate the travel increase a bit but there isn't much in it either way they reckon. The VT booster just changes the feel to be that short travel/harder feel that most prefer but won't add anything meaningful to the stopping power as that is 90% determined by the brakes at the wheels. Was interesting having heard that as I suspected as much, it's a personal preference things more than anything and very much against the grain of what the internet suggests.
Also, this sponginess the old commodores are famous for, comes from the booster ballooning and the bracket on the tower flexing like a MF as a result, I videoed it, while using my brakes. They were absolutely spot on! flexes by 10 or more mm. Upgrading the bracket to a much thicker one apparently is the way to go, but I am sus about straining the mount on the tower and cracking the metal over time. I already had the intake pipe mount rip a big section of metal out of the tower, leaving a hole I can see the wheel through
Anyway, there is my long story long tangent.
I'm the director of VSH (Vlad's Spec Holden), because HSV were doing it ass about.
Re: Torana SS
The Speedhut fuel gauge doesn't really like the original Torana sender, it works but the reading can vary a lot. I suspect the old sender just can't hold consistent resistance any more (if it ever could), the original gauges would have smoothed that out a lot more. I've also never gotten around to altering the float arm for the taller drop tank, so it seemed like a good excuse to make some modifications.
Started by removing the sender unit and straightening out the pickup tube for more depth.
I'd kept the remains of an old VT setup after pilfering several bits from it, never throw anything away. These are the key pieces of the sender, needs a new mount because it was originally all part of the plastic pot.
Needed a small chunk of aluminium, but didn't have anything suitable. Fired up the furnace to solve that problem, then squared it up on the mill.
Machined the pivot on the lathe, there is a 2 degree taper to the main section of the hole and there's a threaded hole in the base.
The brass piece on the left is new, this also has a small taper in the opposite direction. The piece on the right is the original that now has a thread.
This was the best way I could think to reproduce the shape that the plastic arm rides on, trepanning it on the lathe wasn't an option given the size.
Back to the mill to create a slot for the little board.
Also a round slot on the back for mounting to the pickup tube.
Drill and tap some holes, add a stainless clamp. Removed some of the excess material so it's as easy as possible to get into the tank.
Made a new threaded electrical terminal.
The board is retained by the screws at top left and bottom right. The brass washer is soldered to the left terminal so that one is now earthed through the tube, I think I'll probably solder a terminal onto the tube on the outside of the tank to get a clean connection.
Tweaked the float arm to suit (I hope, final fine tuning probably required). Pressed on a fitting for a new filter sock.
Started by removing the sender unit and straightening out the pickup tube for more depth.
I'd kept the remains of an old VT setup after pilfering several bits from it, never throw anything away. These are the key pieces of the sender, needs a new mount because it was originally all part of the plastic pot.
Needed a small chunk of aluminium, but didn't have anything suitable. Fired up the furnace to solve that problem, then squared it up on the mill.
Machined the pivot on the lathe, there is a 2 degree taper to the main section of the hole and there's a threaded hole in the base.
The brass piece on the left is new, this also has a small taper in the opposite direction. The piece on the right is the original that now has a thread.
This was the best way I could think to reproduce the shape that the plastic arm rides on, trepanning it on the lathe wasn't an option given the size.
Back to the mill to create a slot for the little board.
Also a round slot on the back for mounting to the pickup tube.
Drill and tap some holes, add a stainless clamp. Removed some of the excess material so it's as easy as possible to get into the tank.
Made a new threaded electrical terminal.
The board is retained by the screws at top left and bottom right. The brass washer is soldered to the left terminal so that one is now earthed through the tube, I think I'll probably solder a terminal onto the tube on the outside of the tank to get a clean connection.
Tweaked the float arm to suit (I hope, final fine tuning probably required). Pressed on a fitting for a new filter sock.