HSV VS GTS cable to hydraulic setup

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VK_3800
Posts: 558
Joined: Sun Jul 04, 2010 3:15 pm
cars: SS Torana
Location: NZ

Re: HSV VS GTS cable to hydraulic setup

Post by VK_3800 »

immortality wrote:
VK_3800 wrote:There's nothing wrong with the feel of a hydraulic clutch release if set up correctly. Its still a mechanical linkage and has just as much feel as a cable; if you set up a cable with the wrong lever ratios then it will feel wrong (or not have any feel at all) in exactly the same way. Just because so many people set them up wrong doesn't mean you have to if you want to use one!
How do you adjust a hydraulic clutch? not really a lot of adjustment, master?slave cylinder sizes is not something that is adjustable. The factory hydraulic clutches I have used have not felt nice, lack of feedback, you really don't feel the point the clutch engages etc I'm really not interested in stuffing around with different MC sizes etc to improve it.
Master/slave cylinder sizes _is_ something that is adjustable, you select the appropriate matching set not just any old thing. You can also change the stroke at either end by altering pivots, adjust pushrod lengths and so on, exactly as you would when matching levers at either end of a cable. Sure its valid if you can't be bothered mucking around with it but telling everyone else its impossible to get good feel through a hydraulic clutch because you've seen some bad examples isn't.

Sadly with most factory offerings (especially more modern ones) the objective seems to be to reduce effort and feel to the point there is nothing there - which is what you're describing but for our purposes this is set up wrong. Like I said, you don't have to do that just because someone else does. Its very simple to set it up so you can feel just as much if not more than a cable operated release (brake fluid compresses less than a cable stretches). You don't have any problem with feel in your brake pedal with properly set up brakes, why would the clutch be any different? On top of that if you go to a decent slave in the form of a hydraulic thrust bearing and eliminate the need for a fork, the result is better control and feel than any fork operated release.

You may not like the bulk of a master cylinder in the engine bay, it may cost more than you're willing to spend if you already have a workable cable release (fair enough expense is a big factor), there are of course reasons not to go hydraulic. Lack of feel is not one of them.
immortality
Posts: 3549
Joined: Thu Apr 09, 2009 12:31 pm
cars: VH, VN, VS, VX

Re: HSV VS GTS cable to hydraulic setup

Post by immortality »

I'm talking about the factory set up. It seems like a great expense to me to go altering cylinder sizes when I can get what I want using a good old clutch cable set up.

But for you I will change my statement,

If you want a good hydraulic clutch set up, be prepared to spend $$$ because your not going to get decent pedal feel from the factory fitted hydraulic clutch :)

I agree, that nothing is impossible but at the end of the day simplicity wins in my book and most guys would be using the factory offering which I personally haven't been impressed with.
Helical
Posts: 152
Joined: Mon Jul 04, 2011 8:37 pm
cars: 2000 HSV VS Series 3 Maloo
1995 Holden VS V6 3 seat ute (bunky)
1997 Holden VS S Pak Ute (wreck)
Location: SOR, WA

Re: HSV VS GTS cable to hydraulic setup

Post by Helical »

So I have found out the hydraulic slave cylinder for this setup is somewhat difficult to find. Unfortunately the guy I bought the box off lost the slave cylinder before I picked it up, so I went into AmCap yesterday and spent half an hour with the bloke there trawling through their system to find something close.

So this is the photo from the original gumtree ad for the box. Notice it has some form of adapter plate.
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Then this is what I bought to play around with, not sure what it is actually from. It was lasted as a vs part and I thought it was a Getrag one, but looking at them they are different. I've managed to find a VIN from a GTS-R with the 6 speed so might have to try AmCap again with more specific car details to see what I can find out.
I'm hoping I can find or get made and adapter plate between the cylinder and the piece that it bolts to then onto the bell housing. Just have to try to figure out the length of the stroke that I need. These pull type clutches are alien to me, I can't even figure out how to get the clutch back onto the gearbox with the thrust race in the fork (yet).
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Previous owner did a bodge job of chroming the bell housing, hence the flaking chrome.

Troy
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