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antus wrote:Yeah there are a couple of cranking fuel tables (stage 1, stage 2) that measure injector opening time in milliseconds and dont use the VE table or the Inj rate. So you need to calculate the % difference from the old to new injectors and modify those tables by the same amount.

Thanks
I plan on dividing both by 2

Ran engine again for a few minuets last night to get a bit of heat in the motor and check for leaks before I try and run it in properly.

Initially I had a mechanical fan on the front of the motor which I suspected might interfere with the crank signal. Sure enough RPM was all over the place so the mech fan got turfed. (LOG 6th Start)

I got it to run at about 1800RPM relatively easily however it it still has a crackle and pop while running ( most noticeable on the wideband O2 sensor). Log 7th start

It started to get hot so I shut it down and sure enough the coolant wasn't circulating properly because of a new heater install. I think the water pump was gulping massive amounts of air from the dry heater core which is higher than everything else hence difficult to prime.

Topped up coolant and checked for any leaks and I've lost RPM Signal again. I know this means thats its either a poor signal from the CAS or a dead ignition Module.

My question is it possible that running with the mech fan has fried the module? I've had a backfire exactly like this before with the old locked dizzy camira set up and it was the ignition module.

Assuming it's a reluctor sensor, I doubt it would go from working to not working so easily. Maybe you're right, the module? Do you have a spare to test?

My nephew had lots of issues with new genuine Delphi modules for V6 and one of my 30 year old factory AC Delco ones fixed the issues.

Yeah, I have no real way of fault finding which component is causing the issues.

I've ordered a new tridon module, if nothing changes at least I'll have a spare.

Next move will be changing the chopper wheel to one with raised teeth instead of slots.
In the meantime I'm wiring in twin thermo fans to be controlled by the ecu. Pin C1 looks to be go so hopefully that works.

I have mounted the thermo fans through a relay and am trying to test the pinout C1 to see if it gives a decent 12v to trigger the relay.

I've got the ecu emulating and have set the high speed fan setting to a few degrees below ambient temperature to test the signal. It's got nothing at C1 and also showing high speed fan off on the data dashboard.
Are there any other conditions or parameters which need to be met to trigger the high speed fan on?

C1 is negative. Not 12V positive.

Connect C1 to negative side of the relay coil.

I also think high speed fan temp is off, not on. its saying above this speed natural airflow is sufficient so fan is not required.

Ive had a bad run with tridon ignition components. OEM from ebay is better.

Ok, I'll re-wire the coil to have constant 12v and have the earth pinned through C1.

Will I be able to test it using a test light plugged into +12v and C1 and setting the cut in temp below ambient temp? I don't want to wait until I'm in the middle of running the engine in to find out the fans aren't coming on.

I see there is a speed setting for High speed fan to cut out above (xkm) I have set that to zero as I don't have a speed sensor.

Fingers crossed with the Tridon. Do you have a link for OEM? everything I found was from overseas.

I'd make sure it's an LED test light.
I just worry about putting to much load on the ECU circuit.

Without going thru all posts my question is. Is this a 2 wire inductive sensor and an alloy wheel? If so how does it work?