Well, it's about 6 months on now, and the new regulator seems to be content with its life, no repeat failure. So it's time to call it. The original regulator must have failed (shorted output transistor) of its own accord, and not due to the surprisingly low field coil resistance (which must therefor...

reading the first sentence in the NOTE part states it all, you only getting a V6 memcal that's reprogrammed to a V8. No ECU Included by the looks. Big rippoff at that price. So many people trying to cash in now days. Hmmm ... I don't think so, I think that their wording is just a bit sloppy. The ad...

Well, the white label on the PCM looks original, so I'd say what we have here is the marrying of a memcal-less '424 PCM, originally V8 CKUP, with a V6 memcal which has been reprogrammed with the CKUP firmware.

Joe.

FWIW, the most common brand of connectors used in Commodores seems to have been (AFAICT) Yazaki, then AMP/Tyco as a distant second, then a sprinkling of others such as Sumitomo, Delphi/Aptiv, etc.

Joe.

I really doubt there is a problem with the rotor. I used to always carry spare regulators due to the failure rate. They usually stop charging and the red light starts coming on but yours is another problen with it continuing to provide current to the rotor with the ign off. I had that once on my ow...

When I started this thread, I had a faulty alternator that had flattened my battery quick smart, despite the car being off (except for an initial 10 minutes or less during a short drive home). Finding that the regulator had a shorted transistor that drives the rotor field coil, and a resistance of o...

If you look on the P04 where the connector pins are soldiered in, pay close attention to the circles where the soldier goes. Some of them have some kind of markings, almost like telling that certain pins are special and have a different purpose. It's not clear what "markings" you are refe...

I can only go on older cars. The later ECU controlled alternators are probably different. Is your multimeter aaccurate? It's getting harder to find specs for newer cars because of the throw away mentality. I do know that in many cases it's better to repair than to replace with the cheap crap. No, t...

From my experience little goes wrong with the rotor. I have seen one go short to ground easily picked up by measuring resistance from a slip ring to the rotor shaft. Usually around 3-4 ohms resistance between slip rings for a lot of alternators. Even if the regulator is faulty (which is my guess) t...

We bench test by applying 12v to the rotor coils and observe current draw which should be 4-6ohms The regulator sounds like your fault in this case, for what it's worth bin it for a new genuine one. Thanks, Gareth. So is that 4-6 ohms, as calculated from the observed current draw using Ohm's Law, o...