The only way to really do it right is to make the headers actually fit. I find that most need ground clearance mods anyway (customers expect things to bolt in so suppliers play it a little too safe with floor clearance at the expense of hanging down too low) so just start chopping :-) Sometimes you ...

^ Thanks, that might be a bit generous. I do aspire to it though. Nothing too exciting today, have started back on the wiring. Added earth wires to the front indicator housings, these will get new connectors when they arrive. https://img.v8comp.co.nz/Torana/20231228_155337.jpg Dropped the mounting l...

I had to pull the small plastic infill piece that seals between the radiator and cowling panel Funnily enough one of the best factory Commodore cold air intakes was on the 4 cylinder VK, had a plastic duct that ran beside the narrower radiator. Probably more usable area than many aftermarket V8 OTR...

Surprised there was any measurable gain at all with the throttle body. Improving the manifold should actually make it achieve something, will be interesting. Commodores have a bit of a gap over the radiator that can take in air from the grill/under bonnet edge, the intake will work as well as any of...

Cleaned up the blower housing and replaced the fibreglass with epoxy in the area previously modified for clearance, should last better now. https://img.v8comp.co.nz/Torana/20231203_100035.jpg Removed the resistor wire from the blower motor and added a plug inside the housing. https://img.v8comp.co.n...

Covers now painted in wrinkle black.


Used a razor blade to get the bulk of the paint off the top surface while still soft, then sanded once fully cured. Seems to have come up pretty well.

I'd be tempted to lift the entire rail and injector assembly off the engine and see if you can get enough room to put it in a plastic container (might have to temporarily install some longer hoses) - then you'll be able to see if the injectors are opening or leaking/jammed.

It should only pulse when commanded by the ECU, the light should not be on at any other time.

edit: that's assuming you have the light connected to both terminals on the injector plug, rather than probing one and getting the ground from elsewhere

Detail on the hard lines is a few pages back: https://pcmhacking.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=4528&start=170#p123686 No sealant required, there are machined hose barbs welded into the stainless tubing. The manifold gets pretty hot regardless, but with the cold air intake temps drop quickl...

As above the ECU provides the ground side. You can un-plug and run a test light instead to see what's happening.