Custom Flange - 3d printing, CAD, Sand Casting

Ecu Hardware Modifications
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Re: Custom Flange - 3d printing, CAD, Sand Casting

Postby BennVenn » Mon Mar 28, 2016 8:53 am

There will be no ignition in the cylinder. You are testing for dynamic flow, not combustion pressures.

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Re: Custom Flange - 3d printing, CAD, Sand Casting

Postby vlad01 » Mon Mar 28, 2016 9:28 am

immortality wrote:Unfortunately peak pressure changes depending on ignition timing so you would need to be able to log multiple points in one cycle depending on engine load, rpm etc.

Cranking pressure on a decent (stock) ecotec is ~170psi, during a combustion stroke it would be much higher.

Firing order, 1 6 5 4 3 2

So basically it's each runner in order....

MY understanding is that a split plenum manifold is the best design. Walker did one but it was bloody expensive and only a few were ever produced.

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And they could be done better again with casting rather than fabricating. They are the ultimate manifold as 3 cyl per plenum is the sweet spot in resonate intakes. The other issue with a design like that is alternator relocation.
I'm the director of VSH (Vlad's Spec Holden), because HSV were doing it ass about.

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Re: Custom Flange - 3d printing, CAD, Sand Casting

Postby immortality » Mon Mar 28, 2016 9:31 am

No doubt, that manifold was made for looks.

On a race car it would be easy enough to move the alternator to say where the aircon used to be. Street car, not so easy unfortunately.

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Re: Custom Flange - 3d printing, CAD, Sand Casting

Postby vlad01 » Mon Mar 28, 2016 9:36 am

Yep to delete air con would be shite. If you look at the Nissan gtr v6 manifold you'd swear it would almost bolt on as the have a similar lim pattern to the ecotec. Thier plenum design is very good.
I'm the director of VSH (Vlad's Spec Holden), because HSV were doing it ass about.

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Re: Custom Flange - 3d printing, CAD, Sand Casting

Postby BennVenn » Tue Mar 29, 2016 8:18 am

festy wrote:What style furnace are you using?
Before I moved to suburbia I had a wood fired furnace made out of an old washing machine tub - it looked pretty spectacular and sounded like a jet engine and I could only run it in winter due to the fire risk.
I'm planning on building a new one that's a little more neighbor friendly, so will probably go gas fired this time. I'd love to go diesel or waste oil, but doubt my neighbors would appreciate the soot and smell :oops:
Maybe I should look into an EFI burner? :mrgreen:

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My current burner is LPG with forced air from an air bed inflator.

My previous burner was EFI, an Injector I found in my box of bits, bosch pump, reg, PWM controller for fuel flow, forced air. The problem was it took a while to get hot enough for the fuel to fully atomize and mix with the air. Before that it was stinky, sooty and dangerous. Also, petrol is not clean burning. It stings the eyes, smells pretty bad and having pressurised fuel that close to the furnace isn't a good idea. I had the hose split once and spray fuel all over the place. That was the last time I fired up the petrol burner. It was extremely efficient, 5L would last weeks!

Before those, I had a charcoal burner. This took way to long to melt a charge, was expensive, burnt quickly and got hot enough to melt stainless.

I've got about 100L of used engine oil ready for the next burner design. With the cars, bikes, tractors and generators I'll be accumulating quite a lot of oil.

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Re: Custom Flange - 3d printing, CAD, Sand Casting

Postby Jayme » Tue Mar 29, 2016 8:25 am

something like the kero burners do that heat up the fuel in a big coil in the flame area before it goes back up to the nozzle, to get it nice and hot, runny and easier to atmoize? maybe even do some oil cracking like the biodeisel process to get it even thinner?

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Re: Custom Flange - 3d printing, CAD, Sand Casting

Postby BennVenn » Tue Mar 29, 2016 8:42 am

Funny you mention that, I tried pre-heating the fuel in a copper tube running along the lower wall of the furnace. It was a little dramatic! high pressure vapor pockets formed and blasted the liquid in the line into the chamber at a few hundred PSI. There is just too much heat in there to pre-heat fuel or oil reliably. I was going to pull a coffee machine apart and use the heater block in there to bring the fuel up to around 90deg where it should fully be in a vapor. This would mean I need 240v.

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Re: Custom Flange - 3d printing, CAD, Sand Casting

Postby Jayme » Tue Mar 29, 2016 9:02 am

haha thats a worry! the kero burners would have a lot less heat than a furnace... also the coil fills from the bottom so only the vapour makes it to the nozzle. kero is probably a bit thicker than petrol too and takes more heat to vapourise.

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Re: Custom Flange - 3d printing, CAD, Sand Casting

Postby BennVenn » Tue Mar 29, 2016 9:07 am

Ahh you mean like those little brass 1950's blowtorches? I've got one that runs on kero and you need to prime it, then pre-heat the evaporator, then light it.

I'd recommend gas if you ever plan to build a new burner. So much easier to control the heat and mixture. A lean flame will chew through your crucible in a few pours, too rich and you'll gas you melt.

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Re: Custom Flange - 3d printing, CAD, Sand Casting

Postby festy » Tue Mar 29, 2016 11:47 am

Sounds like your petrol burner was almost as un-neighborly as an oil burner :(

I wonder if a blow through carby setup would work any better? :)
Gas is easy, clean and fast - but expensive if you're using LPG. Still probably the best option though.

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