Using e85 in our commodores

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Wade
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Using e85 in our commodores

Post by Wade »

Ok fellas who has run e85. What componants are compatible with e85 across the holden commodore range. Anyone thats actually used it and has genuine input feel free to share. Pro’s con’s, ignition requirements, afr’s ect.
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Gareth
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Re: Using e85 in our commodores

Post by Gareth »

What model range are you referring to?
According to chemistry, alcohol is a solution...
Wade
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Re: Using e85 in our commodores

Post by Wade »

All of them. All my cars are vy ti vz’s but any info on all the models would be great. May help others out as well if all the info is in 1 spot
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vlad01
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Re: Using e85 in our commodores

Post by vlad01 »

I have, only issue is the intake return line in the VS and older goes all jelly like and fragile. it will return back to normal after some time of switching back to petrol but it will probably break off long term on E85. Only solution is to open the tank and replace the line with a gates submersible line which are E85 compatible.

All the rest of the components are fine, though I heard paper based fuel filters aren't recommended.
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krusty
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Re: Using e85 in our commodores

Post by krusty »

Wade wrote:Ok fellas who has run e85. What componants are compatible with e85 across the holden commodore range. Anyone thats actually used it and has genuine input feel free to share. Pro’s con’s, ignition requirements, afr’s ect.
Make sure you service injectors super regularly. Seen a few customers forget to do it and created all kinds of phantom issues inc lean cylinders from blocked injectors eventually taking out the valve seats with deep cracking.

Not sure on why but a couple of my guys didn't replace engine bay fuel lines on their VT, VX and VY with E85 hose as advised and years later zero issues on the hoses, aluminium components a different story :(

E85 will pich up plenty of junk from the system so changing fuel filters like crazy for the first couple months is a great idea too.

I guess just keep an eye on everything :thumbup:
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delcowizzid
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Re: Using e85 in our commodores

Post by delcowizzid »

I only deal with 1 e85 car that runs on drum e85 its full drag .don't use the wrong grade of alloy for your tank or fuel rails I know that much lol I'm sick of replacing injector baskets every 8 passes lol car gets so lean it won't even spool up the turbos on the transbrake and you know its all blocked with alloy corrosion again .first time the 1uzfe was only running on 5 cylinders around 180 degree egt and 3 were at 70degree egt cleaned injectors all over 300 at the same rpm lol we now have a big bag of injector filters so we can replace them at the track lol
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Wade
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Re: Using e85 in our commodores

Post by Wade »

So e85 compatible fuel hose is the go. Running twin filters and changing them more often would help? And delco, so whats the correct grade of alloy? All of them run alloy rails from my understanding. Pretty sure the hard fuel lines are not alloy?
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vlad01
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Re: Using e85 in our commodores

Post by vlad01 »

hard lines are steel with some sort of tin alloy coating inside/out.

Never had an issue with alloy. I have extensively tested several alloy parts submerged in an open to atmosphere container of pump grade E85 and not a thing happen.

Also we have race cars using them for a few years with 0 effect on any of the components. They must sulfuric acid as e85 over in NZ lol.

I have had 0 issues with e85 and several instances of corrosion issues with 95 octane petrol, 0 with 98 and 0 with 91.
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delcowizzid
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Re: Using e85 in our commodores

Post by delcowizzid »

Ethanol-proofing your fabricated tank
If you are not in the market for a new bladder tank or you already have a fabricated tank fitted to your vehicle, you still have some very cheap options. As not all aluminium alloys are created equal, try to find out the actual material used. 5005, 5052, 5083, 5086, 6061 & 6063 type aluminum alloys are naturally better at resisting corrosion. If you are having a new tank fabricated, you should insist it be made from one of these alloys using 5356 welding. This will ensure best protection and a long service life.
A cheap (under $200 in many cases) and effective method of protecting aluminum components is anodizing; the controlled oxidization of aluminum, which leaves a thin layer of aluminum oxide on the outer layer of the material. This oxide layer provides excellent protection against corrosion. Marcel Meerkerk from Advanced Anodising Ltd in Tokoroa has provided us with some tips on anodizing:
• Type 2 anodizing, also known as Marine Grade Anodizing, is used for decorative purposes as well as wear and corrosion resistance. This is suitable for fuel tanks, swirl pots, fuel rails, carburetors, etc. when using E85. It also provides the greatest range in color options.
• Type 3 anodizing is commonly called hard anodizing and is similar to Type 2 but provides the greatest protection against corrosion. The color range is very limited and usually black is used.
• Fabricated components should be made from 5005, 5052, 5083, 5086, 6061 & 6063 alloys. Machined components should be made out of 6061 alloy. Avoid any 2000 series alloys such as 2011 or 2024. These alloys machine very well but due to their high copper content do not perform as well with regards to corrosion resistance even if anodized.
• Avoid where possible mixing too many alloys when constructing a fuel tank or similar. Different alloys anodize differently. If the alloys are too dissimilar then one alloy may anodize in preference to the other, resulting in a variation in coating thickness.
• Avoid the use of non-aluminum alloys, as these are quite often damaged during anodizing and again adversely affect the current flow in the part to be anodized. Some times we receive parts that have steel inserts, which rust if anodized. Steel parts must either be removed, masked or not anodized.
• Price depends in part on the number of items to be anodized, the size/surface, whether masking is required, whether extra cleaning is required, whether or not color is required, whether or not any extra surface preparation is required prior to anodizing.
• If parts are already anodized they can be re-anodized if damaged or showing early stages of corrosion.
• If parts are already corroded with pitting corrosion, it may be best to replace the part rather than anodizing. It all depends on the degree.

Shameless cut and paste with the better grades of stainless
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delcowizzid
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Re: Using e85 in our commodores

Post by delcowizzid »

I'll get a pic of the eaten away fuel rails from the 1uzfe next time I have them off its all coming apart to store it over winter due to the damage we found over the season
If Its Got Gas Or Ass Count Me In.if it cant be fixed with a hammer you have an electrical problem
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