Clutch questions. Puck disks etc...
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Re: Clutch questions. Puck disks etc...
vlad01 wrote:The T5 retainer doesn't have anything to support a locating pin or alike, like I see on your TKO.
Didn't come that way, I just removed the bearing retainer and machined it to suit. There's also a screw-on collar pressed onto it. The original Muncie kit actually came with a replacement bearing retainer ready to go.
vlad01 wrote:If it was all ceramic it likely would have lasted longer, but of course machining or replacing flywheels often gets expensive.
The metal surfaces wear equally, pressure plate lost over 1mm and the clutch actually starting slipping while engaged - not a good feeling when overtaking! You'd need a proper steel flywheel face and even then you'd be replacing frequently with the wear rate. Obviously this assumes that the clutch is actually being used to it's potential, don't need anything fancy otherwise.
Re: Clutch questions. Puck disks etc...
That Howe bearing is still the style where the outer body moves.
Sometimes you can find better options with the radius diaphragm clutch fingers as that seems to be more popular in the US, and run a flat bearing as opposed to the Holden OEM radius bearing and flat clutch. The former fits a little better with the Howe style bearing too.
Sometimes you can find better options with the radius diaphragm clutch fingers as that seems to be more popular in the US, and run a flat bearing as opposed to the Holden OEM radius bearing and flat clutch. The former fits a little better with the Howe style bearing too.
Re: Clutch questions. Puck disks etc...
That's some good valid points.
Regarding the retainer, there are cast iron ones for the GM T5 application that might be better to use as the support for the bearing, a lot stiffer than the alloy one I would imagine and also the right diameter for the Holden application. Only the tube is pretty short but might not matter with the right engineered solution.
https://www.thegearbox.org/catalog/item ... 266839.htm
And there is the Ford one which has a larger tube diameter, but also iron.
https://www.thegearbox.org/catalog/item ... 271715.htm
There is also a jeep one, not sure on the specs but is also an option if it's favourable.
Regarding the retainer, there are cast iron ones for the GM T5 application that might be better to use as the support for the bearing, a lot stiffer than the alloy one I would imagine and also the right diameter for the Holden application. Only the tube is pretty short but might not matter with the right engineered solution.
https://www.thegearbox.org/catalog/item ... 266839.htm
And there is the Ford one which has a larger tube diameter, but also iron.
https://www.thegearbox.org/catalog/item ... 271715.htm
There is also a jeep one, not sure on the specs but is also an option if it's favourable.
I'm the director of VSH (Vlad's Spec Holden), because HSV were doing it ass about.
Re: Clutch questions. Puck disks etc...
This all sounds to complicated id just slap a 4L60e in and call it done 

Re: Clutch questions. Puck disks etc...
Been there done that!
I'm the director of VSH (Vlad's Spec Holden), because HSV were doing it ass about.
Re: Clutch questions. Puck disks etc...
Save yourself the effort and dollars and just LS it and TREMEC 6060. Faster cheaper and sounds better
Re: Clutch questions. Puck disks etc...
I found these a few weeks back, mainly for my nephews 4Runner if the Malwood bearing doesn't work out, but there are some nice options here.
https://apracing.com/drawings/2018%20Pr ... inders.pdf
https://apracing.com/drawings/2018%20Pr ... inders.pdf
I'm the director of VSH (Vlad's Spec Holden), because HSV were doing it ass about.
Re: Clutch questions. Puck disks etc...
HQ355 wrote:Save yourself the effort and dollars and just LS it and TREMEC 6060. Faster cheaper and sounds better
This

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