How to convert a 202 to Delco

Converting To Delco ECU From Carby Or Other Injection Systems
User avatar
Posts: 9821
Joined: Sat Feb 28, 2009 9:05 pm
Location: Tenambit, NSW

How to convert a 202 to Delco

Postby Holden202T » Sun Mar 01, 2009 8:21 am

Well i'm sure theres alot of people out there in the same boat as me, driving around with a vk efi engine and just want that little bit more tunability from it!

Even if your car is not a 202 most of the stuff here will be of good use if you want to do it. The first issue and probably deal breaker, is getting a crank trigger, which on some cars is as simple as getting a dizzy from another model or in my case can be a far more custom made option.

That said it is not as hard as you might think to convert alot of dizzy's to work perfectly. So firstly you need to find out what type of dizzy you have and then you can work out which option from the delco stuff you can use to convert it. Theres really two factory options that are easy to use, Hall Effect (VN-VT Commodore) or Reluctor (Carmira/Astra/Pulsar).
In my case the reluctor setup was what was in the standard holden electronic dizzy so thats the route i took with my conversion.

So firstly to do this you need to get your hands on a few parts from bosch:

BIM148 - Bosch Ignition Module
BCS803 - Bosch Pulse Generator
Bosch Ignition Coil (part number TBA)

Now the pulse generator is not mandatory but its only about $15 and it gives you a lead to cut off the camira pulse generator and attach to the end of the 202 dizzy and then will give you a neater finish. Now that we have all the hardware its time to start modifying stuff. I suggest you get a spare 202 electronic dizzy for this as it wont be usable in its old application once modified.

So first thing to do is to start stripping the dizzy down, i figure its worth while fully pulling it down just to give it a good once over and clean and then lube it all up so you know it will work properly! Once you have done that, put the main shaft in the vice, strip all the springs and advance weights from it then weld the bottom part to the top part like in the picture, if you get the two parts in roughly the same spot i have them in the picture it gets the timing mark on the housing VERY close to the right spot (although this doesn't really matter as much anymore)

R0018626.JPG
R0018626.JPG (144.54 KiB) Viewed 14699 times

Now the next bit you need to weld up is the vacuum advance mechanism, you will find when your pulling it apart that there is two allen key screws on the base of it that are exposed when you turn the top section, you need to weld it up so the holes are lined up otherwise you can throw it out! All it needs is a small weld to hold the two sections together. Be careful not too go too hard welding here because theres plenty of bits in it that can be damaged by heat if they get too hot.

R0018623.JPG
R0018623.JPG (209.68 KiB) Viewed 14699 times

with that done its time to start putting the dizzy back together, once you get it to this stage you need to start working out where to mount the ignition module, i have found the best spot is under the base on the side of it, as it allows the heatsink part of the module to fully contact the dizzy base to disipate heat and its reasonably protected aswell.

R0018630.JPG
R0018630.JPG (150.77 KiB) Viewed 14699 times

make sure you apply the heat transfer paste before attaching it and don't be sparing, just blob it all on, you can wipe away any excess that squirts out the sides! You will also notice that the pulse generator lead fits nicely here and makes for a nice neat conversion, plus if the module ever fails its a simple job to replace, requiring no soldering!

About the only other thing you need to know here is that the 202 dizzy has two black wires coming from it, one has a larger lug, this is the positive wire and it needs to be connected to the P terminal on the ignition module and the small lugged wire connects to the N terminal. When its all said and done you should now have a dizzy that looks alot like this and hopefully works just as well :)

R0018629.JPG
R0018629.JPG (141.7 KiB) Viewed 14699 times

One last point, i have found the best way to re-install the vacuum advance mechanism (after locking it) is to get a piece of thin cardboard or something similar (cut up a coke can if you have one) and it needs to be long enough to go the whole way around the outside of the star trigger wheel in the dizzy, so with the allen key screws loose, slot it in between the inner and outer teeth and then rotate the shaft so the inner and outer teeth are lined up with each other, this should perfectly centre the mechanism at which point you can tighten the two allen key screws.
Once you remove the precision lining up tool you should be able to rotate the dizzy shaft without any of the inner teeth touching the outer teeth.

So the next thing you need to do is get the right sensors on the throttle body .... theres a few ways i've seen to do this, one is by making adaptor plates and brackets to mount suitable sensors onto the standard VK EFI TB ... or the other option which i chose was to graft a VN TB flange onto the VK manifold. While i was at it i welded up a few un-needed holes to neaten it up and re-tapped a new thread into one hole to suit the VN MAT sensor.

So this is the flange, i basically hacked up a VN V6 elbow which was pretty close to perfect for what i needed.

R0014228.JPG
R0014228.JPG (173.94 KiB) Viewed 14699 times

And this is the working product ... mind you i didn't do too good a job of it, its not even straight :)

R0014244.JPG
R0014244.JPG (157.23 KiB) Viewed 14699 times

also note, left hand end, the hole there has been welded up and smoothed over, and after this picture was taken i welded up the fitting to the right of the TB and then drilled and re-tapped it to suit the VN sensor thread ... unfortunately its bigger than the vn sensor needs and i wasn't able to find an adaptor to allow it to just screw in .... but if your getting a flange welded on its not hard to zap the hole at the same time. Also at the top of the picture there used to be a EGR valve flange on the manifold, these holes were also welded up and smoothed over.

With the manifold completed all that left was to sort out the wiring, and if your like me and unable to get your hands on a camira wiring loom then the other option is to modify a vn v6 loom to suit. This is not a hugely hard task, but does require a few plugs to be sourced from a camira/pulsar/astra .... alternatively if you wish to go all out you can buy them brand new from http://www.eficonnections.com ... and you will need, the two plugs that connect to the ignition module and the two plugs (which join to make one plug) for the ignition coil.

You need to cut the DFI module plug off the VN loom and this provides the wires you need.

This diagram shows what you need to do:
File0005.pdf
(936.47 KiB) Downloaded 837 times

VN wiring diagram if you need to reference it for wire colours:
VN_V6 Wiring Diagram_b.pdf
(45.49 KiB) Downloaded 598 times


R0020146.JPG
R0020146.JPG (183.26 KiB) Viewed 14699 times

For the Pink wire on the coil i used the Red wire that fed the DFI module, and there should also be a green tacho lead there aswell for the brown wire on the camira coil.

R0020147.JPG
R0020147.JPG (187.39 KiB) Viewed 14699 times

As mentioned above, efi connections actually have the wire that goes from the coil to the ignition module pre-made if you prefer this option.

With this all done correctly you should be able to get spark out of the system which in turn will provide the reference pulses for firing the injectors in which case your pretty much ready to go!

P1000284.JPG
P1000284.JPG (194.72 KiB) Viewed 14699 times

Also note that to get all the vn wiring loom in the right location i had to strip back virtually the whole lot and re-route alot of wires to get them where i needed them, but the good thing is there is enough wire in the loom to do it!!

It went from this:
motor-beforefirststart.jpg
motor-beforefirststart.jpg (73.88 KiB) Viewed 14699 times

To this:
P1010586.JPG
P1010586.JPG (301.28 KiB) Viewed 14699 times

Oh and one last thing, i did a comparison of the smallest part of my delco inlet pipe compared to the hole in the vk air flow meter .... i reckon theres a good 30-40% increase in air there! so if there was a restriction there wont be now :)

P1010588.JPG
P1010588.JPG (118.87 KiB) Viewed 14699 times

If anyone can see parts i have missed or anything you would like added to it etc please let me know and i will update the original post to keep it as one big article!

Posts: 44
Joined: Sat Jun 06, 2009 8:56 pm
Location: Latrobe Valley, Vic.

Re: How to convert a 202 to Delco

Postby Rock_Lobster » Thu Jul 02, 2009 9:10 pm

BOSCH catalog for Ignition Modules and Pulse Generators.

:- http://apps.bosch.com.au/products/saa/ignition_modules.pdf

May be handy.

Wayne
If you can't be a good example, be a horrible warning.

User avatar
Posts: 9821
Joined: Sat Feb 28, 2009 9:05 pm
Location: Tenambit, NSW

Re: How to convert a 202 to Delco

Postby Holden202T » Thu Jul 02, 2009 9:19 pm

its a shame they don't have the plug kit for the camira module .....

Posts: 44
Joined: Sat Jun 06, 2009 8:56 pm
Location: Latrobe Valley, Vic.

Re: How to convert a 202 to Delco

Postby Rock_Lobster » Fri Jul 03, 2009 10:02 am

Just to make things a little easier :- http://gallery.oldholden.com/Marksshed/ute/donk/EFI/EFI_ECU/EFI_mods/

According to Mark Berner's photo's at OLDHOLDEN, the VN V8 throttlebody bolts straight on to the VK EFI manifold.
This throttlebody only uses two of the four studs.

vn2vk1.jpg
vn2vk1.jpg (33.54 KiB) Viewed 18709 times


vn2vk2.jpg
vn2vk2.jpg (35.35 KiB) Viewed 18706 times


vn2vk3.jpg
vn2vk3.jpg (30.83 KiB) Viewed 18701 times


That would make a conversion MUCH easier.

Wayne
If you can't be a good example, be a horrible warning.

User avatar
Posts: 9821
Joined: Sat Feb 28, 2009 9:05 pm
Location: Tenambit, NSW

Re: How to convert a 202 to Delco

Postby Holden202T » Fri Jul 03, 2009 12:08 pm

i'll have to confirm it but im pretty sure Mark said that the accelerator bracket hit on the manifold when it was opened ..... i can't remember it was so long ago when he was doing that :D maybe with a few bits trimmed off it might fit.

just as a useless side note, that manifold in the pictures is brand new old stock ... never been on a car!

Posts: 44
Joined: Thu Apr 16, 2009 10:46 pm

Re: How to convert a 202 to Delco

Postby Biggsy » Fri Jul 03, 2009 1:26 pm

If that is the case, then the vn/p/r v6 throttle body will bolt on too, the have same base plate (I use to bolt the v8 TB's to v6's).

Dave.

User avatar
Posts: 9821
Joined: Sat Feb 28, 2009 9:05 pm
Location: Tenambit, NSW

Re: How to convert a 202 to Delco

Postby Holden202T » Fri Jul 03, 2009 3:05 pm

yeah thats right they are all the same and from what i've seen you don't need a V8 TB on a 202 anyways so a V6 TB would be a good choice.

User avatar
Posts: 9821
Joined: Sat Feb 28, 2009 9:05 pm
Location: Tenambit, NSW

Re: How to convert a 202 to Delco

Postby Holden202T » Fri Jul 03, 2009 7:41 pm

just spoke to Mark, he says it does hit .... i have a manifold and TB so when i get a chance i'll have a fiddle and see if its something that can be cut off the bracket to stop it hitting .... i know its on the kickdown side of the bracket so its possible.

Posts: 80
Joined: Thu Jun 11, 2009 12:25 am
Location: Goulburn, NSW

Re: How to convert a 202 to Delco

Postby jacomms » Fri Jul 03, 2009 9:37 pm

TB fits the intak just fine....from mem when I did my brothers hatchback we just port matched it and filled a few holes b4 flap disc and sand blast.....it was a nice conversion....almost the same mod to the dizzy too :-) ....boy that would have been 9 or 10 years ago .......from mem my bro had to get the torana SS scop made wider to make it all fit under the hood....... hahaha it was a fun car.....I will ask him if he has some photos to scan......man i love dig cameras today :-)

Justin

User avatar
Posts: 9821
Joined: Sat Feb 28, 2009 9:05 pm
Location: Tenambit, NSW

Re: How to convert a 202 to Delco

Postby Holden202T » Fri Jul 03, 2009 10:39 pm

the scoop should just fit, the front corner of my inlet manifold used to JUST hit the bonnet inside the scoop area before i put the scoop on....

i'd be interested to see which way round you have the TB to make it all fit, cause Marks mounting doesn't fit as the accelerator bracket hits on the manifold at about 70% throttle i think it is.

Next

Return to Delco ECU Conversions

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 2 guests