Vlad's rides thread

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In-Tech
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Re: Vlad's rides thread

Post by In-Tech »

Aww man, I'm sorry to say I have seen this many times, especially with eprom, eeprom and zif adapters :( The zif we can "scratch" as we slowly close the contact points, the others have always come back with a few re-insertions which is kinda like cleaning a battery terminal when it gets oxidized.

I've always wanted to try a chemical solution to clean these contact points and then put dielectric grease so they don't oxidize. This idea is good in my mind, but I don't have any practical experience with the chemicals required without worrying about killing something else :( I bet some others here already know what to do.
-Carl
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Re: Vlad's rides thread

Post by vlad01 »

I ruled out connection issues by trying different known working memcals which house the spring loaded contact fingers. The ECU has solid gold plated pins and they are perfect with no oxide or anything like that.

I suspect faulty MLCs. The replacement ECU is a reco unit which has had a number of MLCs replaced so I think that is the likely culprit. Not uncommon for MLCs to become microphonic with age, cheap shit ones are sometimes microphonic out of the box and whistle when used in a resonant circuit or PWM or similar.
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Re: Vlad's rides thread

Post by vlad01 »

I ended up getting these remotes to try and they finally arrived today.

I can report great success! :thumbup:
It is the European made Techmania Multi frequency universal cloning remote. It can do the 303Mhz the genuine Mongoose ones do. It is also the same dimensions as the VN-VP remote, so a perfect replacement.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/264376384853

Takes a bit of finesse to get the range working on them despite the cloning working fine for some reason, perhaps frequency detection?

I found if I held them back to back and end to end (overlapping by about a 1/3 to a 1/2) it cloned good and works at comparable range to the original which is about 15m.

Very easy to program as well.
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charlay86
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Re: Vlad's rides thread

Post by charlay86 »

vlad01 wrote: I suspect faulty MLCs. The replacement ECU is a reco unit which has had a number of MLCs replaced so I think that is the likely culprit. Not uncommon for MLCs to become microphonic with age, cheap shit ones are sometimes microphonic out of the box and whistle when used in a resonant circuit or PWM or similar.
Actually all class 2 ceramic dielectric materials (such as X7R Z5U Y5V etc) are piezoelectric/ microphonic, regardless of quality or age. These materials do lose some capacitance with age but can be restored by heating them above their Curie point ~125°C. Only real reason to replace them is if they are cracked/damaged.
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Re: Vlad's rides thread

Post by vlad01 »

Yeah I do understand that, but some MLC can become bad, probably due to internal cracking or something similar like you said.
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Re: Vlad's rides thread

Post by vlad01 »

Picked up the car from Gs today, he's done a fantastic job.

First time driving an auto as my own car in about a decade and certainly the first for a built one. It's really weird as the rpm is more of less locked at 4k at WOT the whole time. It has a 2200 stall. Basically sounds like a 1 gear CVT.

Running the auto in manual mode is great and the improvement in acceleration is a lot over the stock setup but in full auto it's the same acceleration as stock due to the auto shifting to 4th at WOT before 100ks and bogging the car down despite 4k rpm being held the whole time.


I think this might be because of the governor setup? Anyone have any experience re-calibrating the governor on a VN-VP auto?
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Re: Vlad's rides thread

Post by vlad01 »

Figured I would add a couple of pics.
IMG_0843.JPG
IMG_0844.JPG

Talked to a few auto people and did some research, looks like the governor needs re-calibration to get the shift points right. So I ordered one from the states but the cheaper alternative to the B&M one as it's the same but not as ludicrously priced for eventually a few stamped bits of metal and springs, but still pricey.

There was none in Aus and back orders weren't coming in until xmas. So had to fork out for the robbery like shipping from the states :roll: Also ordered a genuine governor cover too as I reckon the original will get pretty beat up by the time I am done taking it in and out a million times :lol:


Next on the list after I get the auto right is to get the cat back modded as it's hitting the handbrake clevis? and cable. Then book it into centreline for suspension rebuilt and minor mods like sway bars.

I have quite a few VT conversion bits on the shelf but no hoses and found Hopper's stoppers do a rubber OEM style VT to VP conversion hoses for $110.

Then fit the new repro mudflaps and fix the bonnet badge double sided tape, new boot "holden" badge, new coolant res cap, detail and it's ready to use daily. The only other issue that has cropped up is the left tail light is leaking again but not in the lens this time, but confirmed to be the tail light (mud at the bottom inside the lights and wet) right side is fine.

I am trying to track down those generic cheapo tail lights, they have "AP" on the bottom lens but no brand on the box. They are miles better than genuine or TYC (don't leak, posts don't break, seals better, fits better). No luck finding any though :thumbdown: thats VN too, VP you can forget it, NLA 2016-2017.
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vlad01
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Re: Vlad's rides thread

Post by vlad01 »

Anyone happen to have a pair or at least a LH "AP" brand VP tail light? Have looked everywhere with no luck :thumbdown:


In other news, still waiting for the governor kit and cover to arrive. Should be in Aus but probably still in customs or something.


I also found that the shitbox actual VE was down around 20% compared to the tune, where it should otherwise be and explains why it's so bad on fuel now. So I corrected it via the injector rate. I ruled out everything thing else so I am pretty sure there is a mechanical issue. But at least this is a band aid. Used to do 8.5L/100 average, doing about 12L/100 now.
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Re: Vlad's rides thread

Post by vlad01 »

I've done a bit on the car since the last update but havn't compiled all the pics or what I did yet, been lazy and not particularly motivated.

Got the 5L throttle added and modified so I could run a compensation spring on the TV cable, a lot better but still not awesome. So I'm having thoughts of giving a go with some daily driving once everything else is done, and if I'm still not happy I'm going to the T5 route and keen to hot up the engine a bit while it's out.

While I have been researching brake mods outside of the box, like a master delete and testing a few things on the shitbox to get ideas of what happens with mods like that. I searched up remote boosters to see if that could be an option for tall rocker covers and came across this.

This thing looks awesome! Addresses all the half asseness of the other available solutions, mainly the electrical/control side but also the mounting/package and also plumbing too.

Very compact and well made. Uses the OEM Hella vane pump at it's core :thumbup:

https://www.mpbrakes.com/images/MPB-F200-23.pdf

https://www.mpbrakes.com/accessories/ac ... mp-kit.asp
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Re: Vlad's rides thread

Post by Charlescrown »

A mate recently fitted one to a Nissan 4WD and boy what an improvement to the braking. Not just stopping ability but pedal feel as well.
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