Dusto's Tonner

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Re: Dusto's Tonner

Postby vlad01 » Sat Mar 10, 2018 8:33 pm

dusto wrote:got an alloy upper on the way, just need to sort the lower one now,

http://www.easyperformance.com/support/ ... rt-testing


maybe get this for the inserts?

cant find any cheap lowers there all over 200


i love this manifold, looks like it will flow heaps and is different, probably get the buick engine cover for it just to really confuse the experts


Don't get it, been tested and it flows much worse than the stock inserts. We got them to test and found out its bs as usual.
I'm the director of VSH (Vlad's Spec Holden), because HSV were doing it ass about.

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Re: Dusto's Tonner

Postby Biggvl » Sat Mar 10, 2018 8:42 pm

Ditto what Vlad said, I'll happily sell you mine cheap...
According to chemistry, alcohol is a solution...

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Re: Dusto's Tonner

Postby dusto » Sun Mar 11, 2018 8:07 pm

ill pass if there useless!

till trying to find a cheap enough lower intake

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Re: Dusto's Tonner

Postby vlad01 » Sun Mar 11, 2018 10:30 pm

Had a closer look at how the LIM has to be notched out to fits backwards. Where you see the bypass cover on the back of the L67 manifolds we have here in Oz, that part needs milling out and a "L" section of plate welded in. This would on a genuine LIM block the water flow from one of the banks to the thermostat but from my understanding on the china repro LIMs there is internal 2ndary route the water can take, best to check this and I would recommend drilling/tapping and installing a bypass pipe somewhere else once the section is welded up. Just to be sure you don't cook one of the cylinder/head banks.

Apart from that bit it seems to fit on great and looks ace too. LS1 throttle body can be adapted with ease via an adapter plate and the TB ID right through to the guts of the upper manifold is pretty much the same size all the way, round 75mm.
I'm the director of VSH (Vlad's Spec Holden), because HSV were doing it ass about.

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Re: Dusto's Tonner

Postby dusto » Sun Mar 11, 2018 11:51 pm

You got any pics of it on the car or even better the milling etc

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Re: Dusto's Tonner

Postby Biggvl » Mon Mar 12, 2018 9:24 am

Nope, sorry
According to chemistry, alcohol is a solution...

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Re: Dusto's Tonner

Postby dusto » Tue Mar 13, 2018 10:46 am

guess ill figure it out when it all arrives, not really understanding the bypass etc,

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/GT35-Upgrad ... 2749.l2649

think im settled on this for the turbo, Ball bearing and bigger compressor wheel, ill get it in a 1.06 housing

think i have all the bits i need in transit so now i wait by the front door

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Re: Dusto's Tonner

Postby dusto » Tue Mar 13, 2018 2:08 pm

well looks my Ported heads must have been a practice job for someone, cracked from the seat right down into the port at least 15mm on 2 cyl

one head is fine, other is cracked, head bloke tells me to far to plug and welding heads dosnt work, not sure on the welding bit, id assume heads would be be cast steel these days which is easily welded, most manifolds are cast steel ive cut and welded quite a few for turbo conventions before

looks like my standard heads will stay on, better get this cam installed ready for when the turbo arrives

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Re: Dusto's Tonner

Postby psyolent » Tue Mar 13, 2018 9:14 pm

yeah, dusto you could weld it for sure, but, its an eco head, so, most head places wouldnt bother as they are a dime a dozen. if you're a boilermaker you'd do this job before brekky mate, maybe get it back off em and weld it up and give it back to them and say this is how its done you lazy bastards :)
Cheers,
Greg aka Sir Burnie Tanington

VX1 Berlina V6, VX2 Berlina V6, VT1 Berlina V6 (Track), VN1 S V6, Hilux RN105 GMV8, Ford XP 170.

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Re: Dusto's Tonner

Postby dusto » Tue Mar 13, 2018 10:39 pm

yeah i cant see to much of an issue, he will machine it out and press in seats anyway,
its not like im a idiot i know all about pre heating and controlled cooling, also using the tight filler makes the world of difference,
high Nicol rods are the go, not sure i am 100% that its not just going to cause me issues, cant see to much of an issue, where it is, couple hours work for me.
How hot would a head get? when i turboed my old work truck it already had a cracked manifold, i just lopped the stock flange of and welded on one to suit the turbo i had, welded up the cracks, i believe i just used 7016(Low Hydrogen) electrodes. i may of had some nicol rods cant remember
I did this with it still attached to truck so after welding i just got it started up pretty quick and let it stay hot for a while and cool down, start again repeat a few times, no cracks and it did close to 60,000 hard kms
exhaust glows red hot so im thinking it gets a harder workout then the head would as far as thermal expansion goes.

but is it really worth the risk when ive got a big turbo and cam going on the thing??? if it was an alloy head id say no worries welded heads for mates race bike, whats the worst that will happen? it will crack again under his pressed in seat? probably wouldn't even know if it did
As far as this bloody manifold goes, typical me rushing into things. ill see when it get here but i didn't fully understand what Vlad was saying, this is going to be a bit of an issue. im thinking as the only things that run through into the upper intake is the MAP sensor port , EGR and the coolant ports, so i simply weld all these up get the face machined and spin the upper section. this will keep the thermostat in the L67 position and the bypass elbow should just slip straight in.
save mucking around trying to put a thermostat some where and fucking around with all that cooling shit.

i may also have to shorted the neck down so i can fit a bend in between the radiator. doing it this way i should be able to keep the stock alt position and all water piping stays as per stock ?

i will find out soon enough i guess. Pretty dark about these heads to be honest bloke said they did a really good job behind the seats, and it means more delays in getting the things assembled ready to go on the car

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