Vlad's rides thread

[FXST02 Profile]

Just compared the Australian prices against the US, no wonder we buy from overseas.

[immortality Profile]

Not sure about LN3 but the later ones are also press fit. Dayco specify on their installation spec sheet what the min interference tolerance has to be. All Buick from LN3 to late L27 specify the balancer bolt to be torqued from 270 to 325Nm which is a fucking lot! Pipe on breaker bar and body weight amount. Or if you do it like me as I'm not heavy enough, dead lift the torque wrench while someone holds the engine stand so it doesn't flip over lol

The VN s1 is a slip fit, still firm but not a press fit like the later engines.

Mine is a manual so someone in the drivers seat, car in gear and hard on the brakes whilst I use a 3/4" power bar and all of my 120kg to tighten the bastard

The first time I undid that balancer bolt I moved the car backward even though someone was on the brake in the car...

[vlad01]

Ah ok, yeah well I have never taken one off on the LN3, They aren't common here and not that desired for by the people that know a thing or 2 about these engines.

I don't see why you can't fit the later type with full interference fit, that be better as the interference is primary how the vibration is transmitted and also would prevent fretting that might happen with a slip fit.

[vlad01]

Update time.


Rebuilt the side vents, new internal seals, clean, lube and ducting foam seals done.

Then I gave the console/radio surround a once over. Re-dyed it to with custom to original spec vinyl dye.

Q helped me install the engine. Damn is was so much easier and no damage by installing engine/box in from the top and then bolting the K-frame in underneath with PS rack and hoses already done with the unit still suspended by the crane and trans cross-member already bolted up. Met them up in the middle and went without a hitch.

We were done in about an hour if that, we maybe longer as we were talking shit as usual.

I put blankets around not to scratch or chip the paint and also protected the rad support as I climbed in and out of the bay.

Engine in but something wasn't right, it was on an angle, left header wouldn't fit as it hit the floor and the shifter was way off to the right.

Found the tuff mount was too tall and with stock genuine mount on the other side the whole engine was tilted by a heap.

Dropped the lower section of the tuff mount and adjusted the height of the engine and measured the difference. I got 5mm on the front of the mount.

So I got it fly cut down 5mm and the threads for the studs extended by the same amount.

While I had it out I took the opportunity to fix the corrosion and flaking paint problem I found after I put the engine in on the AC/engine mount bracket as originally this was only done in VHT silver paint and that was over 2 years ago now, started to corrode as its not a well sealing paint. Finally I got that blasted and painted in rust bullet, my fav of course and also the DFI bracket as it was the only other item not rust bullet'd , also VHT spray can.

So every alloy part on the whole car is basically blasted and painted in rust bullet. Fuck off corrosion!


In it went.

[vlad01]

So with the mount machined shorter by 5mm it was way better! Still not 100%, should of went for 6 or 7mm as it would be dead lever if not little lower which would accommodate the OEM mount sagging over time. But it was close enough for an aftermarket go fast bit so I will call it done!

I have been working with the manufacture of the Tuff mount to let them know of these issues when using in the older chassis, header clearances and mixed mounts as some people do.

They are going to be correcting this for future mounts so that's good news.




You can just see its a tad high still but barely, it was a large amount, 5mm at the mount was like almost 10mm on the outer parts of the engine.

Exhaust fits now!

Speaking of the exhaust. These larger competition pacemakers actually fit way better than the smaller street version, ironically there is more room as they are routed better with the steering column piece of the header having it's flange moved to a better location and pitched at an angle instead of being level with and almost touching the clutch fork cover making it impossible to remove/install the cover without either removing the header or pulling the bell-housing and box back.

With these you can easily access the cover for service as seen in this pic. I adjusted the cable by hand in 3 min, on the VR it took me 30 min with pliers to turn the damn thing.


Another good thing is the cover wont get roasted as it's much further away, well the street version was like 1-2mm from touching. Here its like 15mm from he closest point.

So last 3 days I got the throttle cable done, fuel lines, vac lines, wiring, MAP sensor, TB elbow, TB, brackets, clutch cable, alternator, belt etc etc...

I am running Gates barricade fuel line and Gates accessory belt if anyone is wondering. Sick of shit quality off the self lines and belts so I ordered these specifically.

So engine is basically done. Psyolent, get some towels before viewing these pics (Pr0n).

Fuck yeah, fucking oath!

[psyolent]

yes. thats looking very good mate.
really like that rust bullet stuff. great finish and seems to go the distance unlike that VHT crap.

[vlad01]

Yeah well the stuff I did on the VR which it including the fuel tank are like the day I spayed it. I have tested it with leftovers poured onto uncleaned rusty metal and scrap alloy parts and they have been out in the weather for a few years so far, the stuff doesn't budge and sealed out any further corrosion. I worked way beyond my expectations. Best part I like is the unreal adhesion.

[FXST02 Profile]

Vlad,

I'm Speechless that looks terrific.

[ejukated Profile]

Wow didnt know there was supposed to be a cover over the clutch fork hole! Wonder how many have been lost over the years...

How do you find RustBullet vs. KBS vs. POR ?

[vlad01]

RB shits all over POR and KBS.

It has much better adhesion than those 2 and also seals way better against corrosion than those 2 in my testing.

A lot of it comes down to a different resin and that its 70% aluminium powder by weight and its those aluminium flakes that overlap that seals everything up. Also theoretically the aluminum should corrode to give galvanic protection, same as bucket loads of zinc particles in cold gal and cold gal works as we have it on all the welds of the fences on the farm and most havn't even started rusting yet, been 20+ years.

Best thing is RB looks fantastic as is, but it does dull in UV and if the resin is too thick it can get a green tint in UV exposure. Not an issue on engine parts.