Clearly driving in a straight line thenvlad01 wrote:Too late now. I never had handling issues with the rear on these unless the bushes were no existent.
Cheers
oldn64
Clearly driving in a straight line thenvlad01 wrote:Too late now. I never had handling issues with the rear on these unless the bushes were no existent.
I generally run the dogleg backwards and the exhaust under the panhard rod. You actually get better exhaust path and no clearance bang bang issues. Or if you run a vl racecar straight out the side is even better, but road going the police do not like this..vlad01 wrote:No, sideways around corners as with any car I drive.
Actually I can't raise the point as the whole idea of the dog leg bar was to get crucial clearance space for the dual system yet to be fabricated. With a standard bar there wasn't going to be any room, so moving the point up will undo what I am trying to achieve with the dogleg.
vlad01 wrote:What about the axle though? you can't go under that with the exhaust, well not easy with it hitting the road. Got to realize we live in Vic, the roads are far better in Africa.
Adjustable Watts link...Biggvl wrote:Watts link...
Yes the VL Race car runs a higher roll centre rear, no rear sway bar and the standard 15/16 Master. The brakes pad are forza's and are allowed in production car classes. The XF/G pad has almost the same backing as the commodore one but it covers more the disc and there last longer and can deal with repeated stops (ie more friction material means more repeated he speed stops.) I used to run the QFM AR1m pads which were brilliant compared to anything else I ran but the Forza's make the AR1m's feel like compressed cardboard. Bonus too I have a great pedal feel. Infact the next mod is to remove the booster completely.vlad01 wrote:Interesting, don't know what you mean by soggy rear? all mines are very sharp and twitch at the rear and quite harsh just they way I like them be, but it's been years since I has a car with stock rubber bushes, the race spec superpro bushes I use makes the suspension very responsive and sharp. The bushes honestly in my experience account in 60-80% of the improvement in the setup. This is why I have gone to Bilestein and huge swaybars this time to try get similar gains over on top the bushes , because more run of the mill sports springs and shocks, swaybar mods have done jack compared to stock suspension with these bushes.
Interesting idea on the brakes. I purposely built mine like this so I have better lineal brake control. I have the same combo of material and rotor size and type and smaller MC with dual booster on the VR and it way outdoes the 235 sports tyres, I can lock them so easy. So I may have to find better yet again tyres for that car to even utilize the standard sized brakes.
So with the track spec tyres on this car it may finally be a good match to the brakes, if not I will look at larger front but to be honest I doubt I will need bigger ones. I found years ago the perfect rotor/pad compound combo that gives the same braking performance of a VY/VZ with performance pads and rotors but still being stock size and thus quite a few Kg lighter, less up sprung weight is a good thing on dodgy ass vic roads.
Biggvl wrote:Watts link...
While both of these are great suggestions and do work well the tyre size would not work for me for starters. The reason for this has been that the Watts link keeps the diff centred. If you have actually followed a early girl around you will notice that as is moves in the rear teh inside tyre moves out from under the body work. Without this happening I will get tyre rub as I need the diff to move to have the tyres I do. I have a few pic and video of the inside tyre (left at winton on the sweeper) being a good inch outside the body work. I am one fo the fast people around the sweeper at winton and gather many people up around it. It does get hairy when they freak out for the next corner and the only option left for me is the green track next to the bitumenimmortality wrote:Adjustable Watts link...Biggvl wrote:Watts link...