Vlad's rides thread

[psyolent]

Is RB brush on or spray on VSH?

[vlad01]

spray for sure, 10% thinners which is a special type you buy from them, I do believe its pure xylene

How you spray heavily dictates the finish, more thinners its more satin to flat but much more silver, also a lot easier to spray. Comes out finer and thinner coating. Ideal for the fuel tank.

bit less thinners to none at all its very honey like, hard to spray but is very glossy and gives a hammertone finish. I do this but with some thinners to make it easier to lay down and not to over do it with the deep hammertone, otherwise it just sprays on like sound deadener lol. Have to be real careful doing the heavier shinier coats as too thick it foams up as the CO2 gas can't permeate through and causes blisters.


A must to use a good water trap as water is what cures it and makes the CO2 gas as it polymerizes. Dry warm to hot conditions are best, humidity causes bubbles , heat makes no difference in curing but does reduce viscosity making it easier to spray the reduced thinner mixtures and also the thinners dry out faster which once on the surface allows it to quickly thicken up and stay in place. When its cold it tends to not flash off good and slowly can pool up in corners which of course leads to bubbling.


I also highly recommend to use a paint strainer as its that thick chunks that might be in there are impossible to spot and you only find out when you make a mess of the spay job. been there done that, cunt of a thing, lesson learned.

Always pull the gun apart for proper cleaning, gun flushing is not good enough to flush RB out as its really sticky and viscous. Normal thinners do clean it but xylene is best, normal thinners can accelerate curing due to some components that promote water absorption as it evaporates or contain some as is.

Hope that helps.

The best thing with RB is it loves no ferrous metals, actually adheres better to non ferrous than anything I have used and its even works better than on steel. That is why I use it on alloy, tin/lead and gal, but with gal it needs to be keyed, blasted or etched as new but clean gal seems to have some film of something that doesn't allow it to stick as good, once prep'd correctly is sticks just as good.

Best practice is washing good, blasting and then washing it with xylene to remove oils, greases and contamination from blasting, dry for few hours. Summer time is a must in my opinion, otherwise heating the items for a while to drive out moisture as washing it with any solvent will cool the items as it evaporates and condense water on to it, even if invisible amounts it effects the curing and gas production. I found this doesn't happen in summer but Autumn through to Spring at least here is already cold and humid so forced heating is required

Oh and SS it stick like dog shit without any prep other than a good clean. That's pretty unusual for a paint.

[Holden202T]

well im shocked to finally see it in the engine bay, i thought it was never going to happen, so it should be fired in another 2 years ??

[vlad01]

Its going to get a lot faster as its mainly mechanical stuff now. Once the engine was dropped in it only took me 2 weeks to 99% complete everything there. The interior and exhaust is what will take the longest out of the remaining jobs as its custom and much out of my hands. Suspension and brakes and rest of the running gear will be done pretty soon.

Most of my hold ups have been relying on others, eg. sump took 2 machine shops and 18 months, bolt kits about 8 months, laser cutting not done yet, 6 months and about 7 or so companies so far. Only got my first quote today from an online based business in bendigo. I reckon it will be the same long wait for the seat covers to get done as were the vacation ones (6 months)

Still havn't got a response from QFM yet on custom pads lol, contacted them a couple of time 3 months ago already. I have to say Australian business services are very bad. In comparison I used a middle man in the US to get 2 sets of custom tie bar lifters from concept to door in less than 2 months. So that's not even dealing with the manufacture just a reseller who dealt with them on my behalf,massive difference to our service quality.

At least I over the hill now.

[gtrboyy]

Engine bay looks clean AF!!!!

Wondered about front seats on vn/p lately how 99% fubar'd they either rock excessively or completely trashed.

Any way to fix those issues?

[Gareth]

Second that

Vlad, we need a blow by blow how to reco VN-P seats, Vlad spec style...

[psyolent]

it will be a 500hr youtube video and youtube will fail.

years ago my VN seat broke, the guy up the road found a broken component in the back of it and welded it, then, pulled the foams and cloth back over, no issues.

[vlad01]

Only seen one seat break in my younger brother's car. He is a big boy, so his weight broke it. I have seen the lumbar support adjusters break, also when big people own these cars.

Personally I never had a single issue with the seats and never had to do anything to the rails or adjusters, just the covers really.

My advise is to just replace the whole rail section as I did on my brothers car years ago.

[gtrboyy]

Not that big barely 125kgs haha

Yeah noticed adjuster sprocket wheels all worn/fatigued...manual car,clutch pedal not the lightest.

Not seen a good seat in years although heard of dudes needing floorpan bracket welkded to fix seat leaning in.

[vlad01]

You are literally double my weight haha.

I don't know what you mean the pedals are not the lightest? My full ceramic extra HD performance clutch is so light its lighter than nearly all 4cly modern car I have driven, The company dualis is way heavier at the pedal than any clutch I have had except for the one time I set the pivot ball wrong on my old VP as the spec sheet the clutch came with was for the wrong car.

There is a reason I can do 150ms gear changes on a T5 as the clutch is soft enough to punch them at that speed. Must be something not right on yours?

Anyway.

I started doing the console and found the bosses for the handbrake boot retainer broken and there is a cigarette burn in the plastic. So ebay time and found a NOS one at a not awesome price but not bad considering I haven't seen one under $300 for a long time, this comes with free manual trim too so pretty good deal. This will save me a ton of work. Just need to..............restore it

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/ORIGINAL-GE ... 1438.l2649