Dusto's Tonner

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krusty
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Re: Dusto's Tonner

Post by krusty »

V6 heads always need to be crack tested prior to any work regardless of how good they look to the eye cos they love to crack up the runner. The machine shop didn't do this?
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Re: Dusto's Tonner

Post by dusto »

well no, i bought the heads already done sight unseen. The cracks where visual on one off the heads with cracks, i got ripped off as he sent photos clearly of the uncracked head, yeah has me fucked as to why a "Professional" didnt crack test them, every time ive had a head skimmed they always talked me into crack testing. thinking being turbo and only the mace stage 2 (xp hotcam) im not going to gain a lot, so might just throw some stock eco heads on it for now.

the port job apparantly is really good, so thats why im considering welding the fucker up, i also dont want problems down the track due to it for the sake of an extra 30 kw or so when im already going to be breaking things and replacing tyres
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Re: Dusto's Tonner

Post by krusty »

dusto wrote:well no, i bought the heads already done sight unseen. The cracks where visual on one off the heads with cracks, i got ripped off as he sent photos clearly of the uncracked head, yeah has me fucked as to why a "Professional" didnt crack test them, every time ive had a head skimmed they always talked me into crack testing. thinking being turbo and only the mace stage 2 (xp hotcam) im not going to gain a lot, so might just throw some stock eco heads on it for now.

the port job apparantly is really good, so thats why im considering welding the fucker up, i also dont want problems down the track due to it for the sake of an extra 30 kw or so when im already going to be breaking things and replacing tyres
Cast iron usually gets metal sprayed in this kind of instance but would wanna be some crazy good heads to justify the outlay or maybe you're lucky and can DIY which would be banger :)

I've found on certain types of cracks a well done Stellite seat insert catches it and they'll last but been turbo, cylinder pressure and temps will be up there so would be prone to go with stock un cracked heads as ported heads aren't gonna bring much to the table with a turbo set up until you're at the top of the set up I've found. Heads allow a more agressive cam basically so if you're just running a charged cam the shibbe roight!
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Re: Dusto's Tonner

Post by psyolent »

nothing worse than a crack up your runner. or a runner up your crack.
krusty makes a good point. boost = extra cylinder pressure = death.
if you're investing dollars, then, bin them and start with uncracked.
like u say if alloy different story ; ironically ; its still steel but the whole ferrous vs non ferrous etc. that said still not entirely sure why it would matter.
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Re: Dusto's Tonner

Post by dusto »

no im not sure either, the castings are an unknown metal really, so its a compromise, but i figure if i've successfully welded exhaust manifolds and then had the red hot during use you would think thats when it would crack? there is also the tig brazing option with silicon bronze or allumnium broze filler, that would allow for a lot of movement, but like Krusty said ill just stick with stock eco heads for now, got a set here so ill get them checked and use them. the crack was about half way down the port so just a new seat wouldnt cut it either. its not worth the heart ache of trouble down the track, i feel though that it wouldn't be an issue and people who have previously taken welded heads to this bloke had no idea on how to weld/ hence his strict you definitely cant weld a cast iron head at all attitude. and yeah pics of the port are posted above pretty basic port job,
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Re: Dusto's Tonner

Post by dusto »

My turbo arrived
this one is a $250 1 year warranty maxspeedingrods turbo GT35 with .86 AR, i've also got a Chinese GTX35 BB turbo i linked above on the way.

i haven't had to deal with a larger size turbo for a while and it appears to have a shit load of shaft play side to side, i know there meant to but this is pretty sloppy. in and out i cant really pick any movement

video is here

https://youtu.be/ge_NVDNV3u8

so setup will now be
Stock L67 bottom end
Stock L36 Heads
US L36 intake, with reversed upper - LS1 TB
Yella Terra roller tip rockers
Mace/Comp Stage 2 (605) Camshaft
105lb valve springs - might change to 130lb
LS7 lifters
rollmaster single chain timing set
china GT/GTX35 up to 25psi if im feeling brave
china 38mm Wastegate
China FMIC
Seimens Deka 660cc injectors
LS3 Maf and fully sick custom tune with the help from you guys
Stock drivers side exhaust manifold and chine stainless for the turbo. what size should i make the crossover, apparently the pipe into the manifold is 42NB and has made 330rwkw on other peoples setups

and now just as im writing ive decided i want to use head studs so add that to the list
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Re: Dusto's Tonner

Post by vlad01 »

You might as well go to the double row timing chain, especially with larger cam and much heavier springs its highly recommended. 130lb springs are a little on the heavy side, see if you can get 115lb. but I suppose with boost 130 isn't a bad thing. 105 is a bit on the light side.
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krusty
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Re: Dusto's Tonner

Post by krusty »

dusto wrote:My turbo arrived
this one is a $250 1 year warranty maxspeedingrods turbo GT35 with .86 AR, i've also got a Chinese GTX35 BB turbo i linked above on the way.

i haven't had to deal with a larger size turbo for a while and it appears to have a shit load of shaft play side to side, i know there meant to but this is pretty sloppy. in and out i cant really pick any movement

video is here

https://youtu.be/ge_NVDNV3u8

so setup will now be
Stock L67 bottom end
Stock L36 Heads
US L36 intake, with reversed upper - LS1 TB
Yella Terra roller tip rockers
Mace/Comp Stage 2 (605) Camshaft
105lb valve springs - might change to 130lb
LS7 lifters
rollmaster single chain timing set
china GT/GTX35 up to 25psi if im feeling brave
china 38mm Wastegate
China FMIC
Seimens Deka 660cc injectors
LS3 Maf and fully sick custom tune with the help from you guys
Stock drivers side exhaust manifold and chine stainless for the turbo. what size should i make the crossover, apparently the pipe into the manifold is 42NB and has made 330rwkw on other peoples setups

and now just as im writing ive decided i want to use head studs so add that to the list
Good combo. that turbo will work better on an Ecotec bottom end. I've tuned quite a few set ups with it or very similar turbos. One particular customer went from Ecotec engine/ stock cam to L67 bottom end/ stock cam and the turbo couldn't make nealy the same power, dropped heaps of torque and basically it was clear the turbo was over speeding and out of puff.

We now have a 75mm on Ecotec with a glide running 11flat 1/4 mile on just 15psi 320rwkw.

High comp ftw until you start getting real next level on the set up would be my pick or run a larger rear if staying L67. The Xp cam will actually make less power than the stock cam in this instance imo
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Re: Dusto's Tonner

Post by dusto »

interesting stuff, the other turbo has a 66mm front wheel so will help out a bit if that was the problem there and also a 1.06 exhuast housing, im pretty sure that cam is going to be worlds better then the stock one, but i guess ill see, ive decided to just get the turbo shit up and going for now, and then look at playing with cam shafts and heads. this is what im running i can always use the stock eco retainers and preload the springs , i guess its all about how much boost i run and how hard i rev it,

you guys play with engine analyzer pro much? thinking of downloading the trail and see how different cams will perform
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Re: Dusto's Tonner

Post by dusto »

there not a interference engine are they?
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