Hall effect VSS replacement

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Joined: Sun Jul 04, 2010 3:15 pm
Location: NZ

Hall effect VSS replacement

Postby VK_3800 » Thu May 21, 2020 4:15 pm

Hi all

Had the typical VN/VP VSS issue with wiring insulation gone hard over time and exposure to heat, and subsequently broken off right against the plastic body of the sender. Not a big problem, just need to get all the red snot out to gain enough access to attach new wiring as I've done in the past. Only this time I managed to cause too much damage and despite my attempts to repair the thing is toast... oh well.

Anyway, I dug up an A3144 IC which is working happily on the bench so have attached that inside the housing instead and will wire it up. It appears that the recommended circuit uses a 10K pull-up resistor and a 0.1uF decoupling capacitor:

I dug this up from an old post:
VL400 wrote:Yeah it will always have battery voltage, there is a 5k pull up resistor to ignition volts on pin A10. The trans speed sensor is a switch that just grounds A10 - if you quickly tap A10 to ground while logging you should see a speed register in TunerPro.

which is a good start, but what about the cap? Does anyone know if the ECU handles this too, or should I add one inside the sensor housing?


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Re: Hall effect VSS replacement

Postby vlad01 » Thu May 21, 2020 4:42 pm

I would think given that they make them again and they are 1/3 to 1/2 their price from 5 years ago it wouldn't be worth fixing them.

you can get them less than 100 now, they used to be over 200 when I last bought some but they were supper hard to get then, I got the last 2 in vic at the time.

https://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_fro ... r&_sacat=0
I'm the director of VSH (Vlad's Spec Holden), because HSV were doing it ass about.

Posts: 395
Joined: Sun Jul 04, 2010 3:15 pm
Location: NZ

Re: Hall effect VSS replacement

Postby VK_3800 » Fri May 22, 2020 3:07 pm

Not really interested in spending $200 when I can rebuild it with spare parts I already have.

Tried to figure out what's going on in the ECU but not easy to follow, I don't think there's anything there other than pull-up resistor. Figured it can't hurt to just wire it up as per the recommended circuit.

Epoxied the sensor in, and found some fresher wires.


Tests fine on the bench, good digital signal as much as I can tell with just a multimeter.

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