Anyone Using UV Eraser For EPROMS?

[Dylan]

Are peoiple still using UV eraser for the factory type EPROMS?
Or people just change them out for EEPROMS?

They are easier once done but ad costs and time to one off jobs. Just curois as i run NVRAM in my own car and my mates car.
Had the chance to tune a race car and the rules state standard memcal so ive fitted a EEPROM.
I was thinking that for the guys doing lots of tunes the extra cost and time would ad up.

Can you get an eraser that takes the whole memcal? Does it take long to erase?
Whats the top model out there to get?

[Jayme]

most of us use the $5 ebay one... you can get a spare but mines been going for years without breaking. either cut a slot in the drawer to take a full memcal or do what I did and unscrew the lid and place the whole memcal in by hand... I usually do 2 at a time. one either side of the bulb. why solder an eeprom on when you can tear off the sticker and hit it with the UV for 10 mins

[Dylan]

Something like this? All the ones on ebay look the same as this to me.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/271440074068

Jayme, could you post a pic of your modified drawer?

[VL400]

Exactly the same as Jayme, removed the lid and balance it on the memcal. If I dont have a memcal with the right size eprom then it gets replaced with an eeprom board.

[Dylan]

Found an Australian supplier well priced too. I brought my GQ4X from them and cant complain.

http://www.darkwire.com.au/html/uv_eprom_erasers.html

Think i might get one.

[immortality]

I still use the cheap chinese UV eraser, I removed the draw and cut a slot so the whole memcal just slides in but where ever possible if multiple tunes will be done I use a new memcal from The1 with an eeprom.

[Holden202T]

heres my effort of modifying

eprom eraser1.jpg (105.68 KiB) Viewed 5879 times

eprom eraser2.jpg (106.67 KiB) Viewed 5879 times

if I have a v6 sprintcar tune I usually tell the guy to get a VR V6 memcal so its large enough for $12P code, otherwise I need to eeprom them!

[antus]

Ive got one of them, and it works well. Ive never modded it (well, technically I ripped the draw out, you can see the stress marks on the plastic at the top corners of the draw). So I leave the draw out and place the eprom in as pictured. One side gets more direct light than the other so one side for 5 mins, then the other way for 5 mins, and do a blank check. Usually its not quite complete on the first cycle, but I dont want to uv them for too much longer than necessary. So keep swapping and testing.

In practice though, they're mates cars running 12p, so 16k memcals are no good and its worth getting nvram hardware. I guess it depends mainly what your doing. If its one tune and thats the end of it, I wouldnt invest the time in swapping to eeprom and would UV, even tune the stock tune. If you want to be able to make changes more than 2 or 3 times and/or want features from 12p (and dont have a VR memcal which would fit 12p), its probably worth swapping the chip on the memcal to an eeprom up front.

If its a private car, its probably worth burning a tune that works once to a memcal as a backup to keep in the glove box and running an nvram full time. Its worth noting that UV as emitted by these devices can damage your eyes (and more), so when modding avoid looking at the light, and do something to cover the UV. Dont leave it open spraying unfiltered UV around the room where you can see it. It looks like pair of pliers to keep the timer cranked is the norm The timing on mine has no relation to reality at all. Time with something else.

I cough wouldn't bend the pins with a pair of pliers to fit the Australian socket. Although if the device does support 240v, it will probably work perfectly and if its bent right it'll fit in safely leaving no exposed live contacts.