Gm crank trigger wheel
Gm crank trigger wheel
Ok,
I did ask this question in a previous post but i guess it was misunderstood so i will go again.
I noticed that the trigger wheel or reluctor on the LS 24 tooth is an unusual design as it is double sided and the teeth are odd and overlap each other. I am wanting to use this ecu on another vehicle and was wondering if i could just use a straight 24 tooth wheel to suit my motor which i can easily make or if it has to be the strange setup as in the factory.
Next question is can a VR sensor be used rather than the hall effect or can't the ecu be configured this way.
Thanks
Bob
I did ask this question in a previous post but i guess it was misunderstood so i will go again.
I noticed that the trigger wheel or reluctor on the LS 24 tooth is an unusual design as it is double sided and the teeth are odd and overlap each other. I am wanting to use this ecu on another vehicle and was wondering if i could just use a straight 24 tooth wheel to suit my motor which i can easily make or if it has to be the strange setup as in the factory.
Next question is can a VR sensor be used rather than the hall effect or can't the ecu be configured this way.
Thanks
Bob
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1987 YJ
1955 CJ5
1988 MJ Comanche - Location: Commerce GA.
Re: Gm crank trigger wheel
Take a quick read through this thread. I have a pdf on page 3 you might like.Sudsy wrote:Ok,
I did ask this question in a previous post but i guess it was misunderstood so i will go again.
I noticed that the trigger wheel or reluctor on the LS 24 tooth is an unusual design as it is double sided and the teeth are odd and overlap each other. I am wanting to use this ecu on another vehicle and was wondering if i could just use a straight 24 tooth wheel to suit my motor which i can easily make or if it has to be the strange setup as in the factory.
Next question is can a VR sensor be used rather than the hall effect or can't the ecu be configured this way.
Thanks
Bob
I never could get it to run on the factory double 24x trigger wheel. But it runs great on the one I had made.
viewtopic.php?f=42&t=7810
Bad things happen FAST!!!
Re: Gm crank trigger wheel
Thanks Thorwon,
Thanks for the reply. Interesting read. I still don't understand the strange tooth configuration on these. The only ones i have played with in the past are evenly spaced teeth or evenly spaced with a missing tooth. I will have to do a bit more research. I could just use the ls one on the damper but was hoping to be able to make something to use in the original Toyota spot as it's totally out of the way.
Thanks for the reply. Interesting read. I still don't understand the strange tooth configuration on these. The only ones i have played with in the past are evenly spaced teeth or evenly spaced with a missing tooth. I will have to do a bit more research. I could just use the ls one on the damper but was hoping to be able to make something to use in the original Toyota spot as it's totally out of the way.
Re: Gm crank trigger wheel
It's an OEM pattern not an aftermarket. Prior to this was some similar patterns on other models with long and short spacings.
The two rows are offset and the OEM sensor measures both and expects a certain amount of offset and then outputs a single output to the ECU if all is ok.
I believe the later model ECU's are more basic patterns now although they do have a lot more teeth on them.
The two rows are offset and the OEM sensor measures both and expects a certain amount of offset and then outputs a single output to the ECU if all is ok.
I believe the later model ECU's are more basic patterns now although they do have a lot more teeth on them.
Re: Gm crank trigger wheel
Yes, exactly correct, you will notice each side of the wheel is an exact opposite and the sensor reads both high and low to create a single pulse. The later ecm's use 60-2(58x)Dylan wrote:It's an OEM pattern not an aftermarket. Prior to this was some similar patterns on other models with long and short spacings.
The two rows are offset and the OEM sensor measures both and expects a certain amount of offset and then outputs a single output to the ECU if all is ok.
I believe the later model ECU's are more basic patterns now although they do have a lot more teeth on them.
Re: Gm crank trigger wheel
Would it still work with evenly spaced wheel or can it be setup to run on the 60-2 or 36-1 or any other configuration with only a single sensor?In-Tech wrote:Yes, exactly correct, you will notice each side of the wheel is an exact opposite and the sensor reads both high and low to create a single pulse. The later ecm's use 60-2(58x)Dylan wrote:It's an OEM pattern not an aftermarket. Prior to this was some similar patterns on other models with long and short spacings.
The two rows are offset and the OEM sensor measures both and expects a certain amount of offset and then outputs a single output to the ECU if all is ok.
I believe the later model ECU's are more basic patterns now although they do have a lot more teeth on them.
Re: Gm crank trigger wheel
It has to be the same as OEM.
Either aftermarket with single row wheel and aftermarket sensor.
Or OEM wheel and OEM sensor.
Outside of that you'll need to go a different ECU.
Either aftermarket with single row wheel and aftermarket sensor.
Or OEM wheel and OEM sensor.
Outside of that you'll need to go a different ECU.
Re: Gm crank trigger wheel
Does the single row wheel have the same tooth configuration as oem or are they evenly spacedDylan wrote:It has to be the same as OEM.
Either aftermarket with single row wheel and aftermarket sensor.
Or OEM wheel and OEM sensor.
Outside of that you'll need to go a different ECU.
Re: Gm crank trigger wheel
Same as OEM. Just single row.
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- Posts: 95
- Joined: Wed Jan 16, 2019 1:34 am
- cars: 2007 Hemi powered JKUR
1987 YJ
1955 CJ5
1988 MJ Comanche - Location: Commerce GA.
Re: Gm crank trigger wheel
This is the pattern for the GM single 24x reluctor.
This is what I'm running my 4 cylinder Jeep engine on.
This is what I'm running my 4 cylinder Jeep engine on.
Bad things happen FAST!!!