Vs series 3 v8 ute

[The J'rod]

advertised duration is 272/278 and lowace is lucky one building a stroker not me (yes jealous), mine will be standard stroke and compression at this stage, plans in the future but they may never happen to stroke or turbo but there really pipe dreams at the moment, more likely is some head work in the future.

[lowace]

advertised duration is 272/278 and lowace is lucky one building a stroker not me (yes jealous), mine will be standard stroke and compression at this stage, plans in the future but they may never happen to stroke or turbo but there really pipe dreams at the moment, more likely is some head work in the future.

If your not going to stroke it Jrod just shave 40th of the heads for the time being and this will help with losing your low end due to the loss in dynamic comp. People will argue that this is a dodgy way of getting compression but it works and if you dont plan on rebuilding the engine anytime soon you don't really have many options.

[MAGP]

If your not going to stroke it Jrod just shave 40th of the heads for the time being and this will help with losing your low end due to the loss in dynamic comp. People will argue that this is a dodgy way of getting compression but it works and if you dont plan on rebuilding the engine anytime soon you don't really have many options.

If the engine is getting rebored just get higher compression pistons. Easier in the short and long term not to mention less machining required.

[The J'rod]

The reality is that although I would like to clean up the bores and put in flat top slugs, I really don't have funds to get into any bottom end stuff, and that goes for decking heads as well, I know that people will think I'm looking for some unicorn cam which will serve me now and later with further mods, can only try though

[MAGP]

The beauty of a roller cam compared to a traditional flat tappet (both hydraulic and mechanical) is the extra valve opening under the curve. This means you can actually choose a cam that will suit you now and in the future as long as you understand and are willing to live with some compromises (less than with an ordinary flat tappet cam) now or in the future.

If it is a street car that never gets over 6k rpm and spends 99% of its time under 3k rpm then you are probably better off going mild and let the cam build torque rather than trying to go for high rpm horsepower that you'll probably never use. If you do ever decide to stroke it you'll get even more torque and that will give you a corresponding increase in horsepower at the rpm the engine is most often used at. Back when Holden was developing the VN Group A they asked race teams what they wanted out of the new engine compared to the older VL Walkinshaw Group A, they answered torque. Why? because HP is a by-product of torque and in a street engine the more torque you have the more horsepower you'll get at streetable revs.

[immortality]

I'm liking that Howards cam more and more. The advertised duration of 272/278 puts it bang in the middle of the old Crane H264 (which was the max recommended on stock 8.5:1 CR) and H276 which had a suggested 9.5:1 CR but I think this cam will out perform the old 286 I listed above because it has much more area under the curve (increased valve lift). This is a much more decent hydro roller cam.

If there is anyway you can get the CR up a little to 9:1 or over I recon it might be on the money for what you are doing. Getting the heads skimmed shouldn't cost a fortune and another option is to run some Cometic .027" head gaskets instead of the standard .040" which will net you approx another 0.3:1 CR. Using the .027" gaskets is probably a good idea anyway if you don't intend to deck the block as it will improve quench as the piston will be down the bore a bit.

This cam won't be 100% ideal on stock standard CR but if you end up fixing shit later it will make better use of the cam.

[The J'rod]

I'm willing to take comprimise now, it is a street car and won't see 6500k rpm, that's why on paper that howards cam seemed good to me, I mean every advertised rev range from any manufacturer needs to be taken with a pinch of salt as everyone has said there is so many variations as to where it's going to put you in the rev range, I also don't really care if it's a bit doughy up to about 1800-2000 before it's really starting to respond, as in stock form they are quite torquey down low for what they are, and in the wet even with brand new tyres taking off im feathering the throttle as the ass wants to skip out, but also don't want it to be a total pain in the ass to drive down low either, what I'm wanting for me is allow it to drive like miss daisy when i want, but when I want to be a bit of a hoon something that going to throw me back and put a smile on my face, but what i also don't want is if by some miracle in the near future i have the funds available to stroke or change compression (turbo may be diifcult to get the right cam now as N/A then be right for turbo, but have read some stuff on people getting some decent results with a turbo cam grind on N/A, again not sure whether it's mith or fact), and I'm still able to get wothwhile gains from them mods with the cam i select now.

[The J'rod]

Just as I've sent that post I have seen your reply immortality which has cleared a bit of that rant up

[delcowizzid]

We ran the kelford D cam on a stock 304 great can nice idle chop great economy and could just mash the pedal for instant smoke to top gear on a stock converter lol all the engine was rings bearings valvesprings and dedagged the heads plus we removed the collectors off the stock headers and made the ends of the primaries round instead of the triangle shapes the factory crushes on the pipes lol then welded on new 30 dollar pressed steel collectors

[delcowizzid]

Oh and twin 2.5" exhaust with superturbo mufflers and hpipe