Tuning with moats autoprom
- JBalsar
- Posts: 10
- Joined: Thu Aug 04, 2016 1:21 pm
- cars: 1923 T Bucket
1928 Model A Pickup
1928 Model A Tudor
1968 HR Holden
2005 Holden SS Crewman
Tuning with moats autoprom
Hi all,
I am using the moats autoprom for real time tuning. I have made changes and seam to work fine. Next step i added the comms board to my 808 ecu. All seemed fine and working but then it seamed to jump into limp mode. I've have tried a few things like restart the engine and make no changes but still seams to end up in limp mode. (Sometimes it can take around 1min or 10min before it plays up)so i burn the chip and install it in the ecu it runs fine. So the only way i have been able to do the tune is to record a drive then reburn the chip and try again. Has any one have any ideas?
Thanks jb
I am using the moats autoprom for real time tuning. I have made changes and seam to work fine. Next step i added the comms board to my 808 ecu. All seemed fine and working but then it seamed to jump into limp mode. I've have tried a few things like restart the engine and make no changes but still seams to end up in limp mode. (Sometimes it can take around 1min or 10min before it plays up)so i burn the chip and install it in the ecu it runs fine. So the only way i have been able to do the tune is to record a drive then reburn the chip and try again. Has any one have any ideas?
Thanks jb
Re: Tuning with moats autoprom
I don't have a comms board so I've only ever used mine with '082 or '305 ECUs (VR manual which has the high speed ALDL already), but generally no issues. I did find that sometimes it was a pain to get datalogging started with the old laptop while simultaneously emulating but it would never stop the emulation from working. Have been running it in emulation mode with datalogging on and off to tablet (using ALDLDroid) for some time now without issues. I don't try to connect/disconnect the USB connection while running as I understand it gets power from either the ECU or the USB cable depending on what is connected at the time, not sure if that would make any difference.
It sounds like the emulation is dropping out for some reason, is the ribbon cable and plug OK?
It sounds like the emulation is dropping out for some reason, is the ribbon cable and plug OK?
- JBalsar
- Posts: 10
- Joined: Thu Aug 04, 2016 1:21 pm
- cars: 1923 T Bucket
1928 Model A Pickup
1928 Model A Tudor
1968 HR Holden
2005 Holden SS Crewman
Re: Tuning with moats autoprom
Yes all r new. I tried it again tonight and took some fuel out at idle and uploaded it while the car was running. Then a couple of minutes later it went silly again. Not sure what its doing but it connects and disconnects. I'm not even sure if it does go into limp mode but it dumps a lot of fuel and stalls. I thinking if it is a problem from putting the mtx-1 wideband into input d8 on the ecu. But y does it work ok when just viewing or recording a drive?
- delcowizzid
- Posts: 5493
- Joined: Sat Feb 28, 2009 8:38 pm
- Location: Wellington NZ
- Contact:
Re: Tuning with moats autoprom
What codebase are you tuning? $12p? Stock vn code? Make sure you have the autoprom solidly connected vibrations could be jiggling a pin connection
If Its Got Gas Or Ass Count Me In.if it cant be fixed with a hammer you have an electrical problem
- JBalsar
- Posts: 10
- Joined: Thu Aug 04, 2016 1:21 pm
- cars: 1923 T Bucket
1928 Model A Pickup
1928 Model A Tudor
1968 HR Holden
2005 Holden SS Crewman
Re: Tuning with moats autoprom
Yes its the 12P. Using OSE12P V112-1,2 & 3 Bar.xdf & OSE_$12PV112_2Bar.adx files. I thinking I'll disconnect the wideband today & see if that makes a difference. I've attached my bin file. I may have something wrong in there.
- Attachments
-
- jasonv2.bin
- (32 KiB) Downloaded 319 times
- antus
- Site Admin
- Posts: 8253
- Joined: Sat Feb 28, 2009 8:34 pm
- cars: TX Gemini 2L Twincam
TX Gemini SR20 18psi
Datsun 1200 Ute
Subaru Blitzen '06 EZ30 4th gen, 3.0R Spec B - Contact:
Re: Tuning with moats autoprom
Wideband heater circuits introduce a lot of electrical noise to the power, make sure heater power is connected to thick wires preferably not close to the ecu. Disconnect wide band and do a test drive to see if this could be it. Also not sure if ribbon cable length is standard but generally shorter is better.
Have you read the FAQ? For lots of information and links to significant threads see here: http://pcmhacking.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=1396
- JBalsar
- Posts: 10
- Joined: Thu Aug 04, 2016 1:21 pm
- cars: 1923 T Bucket
1928 Model A Pickup
1928 Model A Tudor
1968 HR Holden
2005 Holden SS Crewman
Re: Tuning with moats autoprom
Ribbon is only about 200-300mm long. I thought the heater only came on for the first 20sec or so?
- antus
- Site Admin
- Posts: 8253
- Joined: Sat Feb 28, 2009 8:34 pm
- cars: TX Gemini 2L Twincam
TX Gemini SR20 18psi
Datsun 1200 Ute
Subaru Blitzen '06 EZ30 4th gen, 3.0R Spec B - Contact:
Re: Tuning with moats autoprom
No, the heater runs as much as it needs to to keep the wideband at a specific temperature. I have seen them interfear with pcm operation when a mate connected his to the pcm power lines.
Depending on the type of heater its not a simple on/off either, it switches very fast and with high current.
Depending on the type of heater its not a simple on/off either, it switches very fast and with high current.
Have you read the FAQ? For lots of information and links to significant threads see here: http://pcmhacking.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=1396
- JBalsar
- Posts: 10
- Joined: Thu Aug 04, 2016 1:21 pm
- cars: 1923 T Bucket
1928 Model A Pickup
1928 Model A Tudor
1968 HR Holden
2005 Holden SS Crewman
Re: Tuning with moats autoprom
I disconnected the power from the MTX-1 Wideband today. It made no difference. I will pull the wire out of D8 next and see if that makes a difference.
I might even try another ecu without the comms board & see works.
I might even try another ecu without the comms board & see works.