Yes I have been .
Sorry I probably mixed that up a bit . I have been playing with the - Idle fuel- af ratio vs coolant temp and the - Idle fuel- VE closed throttle vs rpm .
The part I wasn't sure of was if the same rpm in the closed throttle VE should match the main VE . I probably should untick the "closed throttle VE option" by the sounds of it and don't need to worry about it as you said.
I've probably made myself a problem I don't need . I will uncheck it and try again .
Cold and hot idle setting strategy ?
Re: Cold and hot idle setting strategy ?
Give it a go and report back. To get a combo like this tuned well. It can take months of weekend's etc logging changing, logging again more changes. Just enjoy it and don't rush. You'll be right
Re: Cold and hot idle setting strategy ?
Cheers Dylan , I will, thanks for encouragement .
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afterburner
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- Joined: Fri Jul 17, 2020 2:02 am
- cars: VS Olympic Ute 355 supercharged
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Re: Cold and hot idle setting strategy ?
Hi guys. I’m after some tuning help on a vs ute with 355 & whipple supercharger. Still the factory ecu. I have some Siemens 60lb injectors, However when I fitted them it just overfueled & wouldn’t run so I went back to the stock injectors. Obviously I’ve got aftermarket fuel pump & boost compensating fuel regulator with idle fuel pressure at 45psi.
Are you guys tuning the factory ecu here? If so how do I go about this? I want to refit the 60lb injectors so I can tune this properly. It’s running well, plugs look good & I'm spraying water/methanol when it comes on boost
Are you guys tuning the factory ecu here? If so how do I go about this? I want to refit the 60lb injectors so I can tune this properly. It’s running well, plugs look good & I'm spraying water/methanol when it comes on boost
Re: Cold and hot idle setting strategy ?
Is it a MAP based VS or a Series 111 which has the MAF sensor? If its the Olympic model will assume its a Series 111 and MAF based but not all were MAF.
If it were me, I would get rid of the boost compensated fuel pressure regulator as we don’t know the ratio - just run the stock regulator but leave the reference line connected to the manifold ie on the discharge side of the blower. There should be a 1/4” BSPT fitting right there on runner #7. But as manifold pressure increases it will work as it should.
For the tune, just change the Base Injector Rate to suit your injectors. In the stock tune, this is 362. As an example, mine with 42 lb injectors was 190. Yours with 60 lb injectors would be probably around 160 or less. You would also need to adjust the rest of the injector parameters based on the data from your injectors too ie Min Injector Base Pulse Width etc etc
From there, just start with the stock tune. Easiest starting point would be to pick a HSV stroker auto or manual tune from the memcal ID chart. If its MAF based, do yourself a favour and start with the Enhanced Code from The1.
You will find you will need to pull some timing out as the manifold starts to make a positive pressure. For me this is around the 450 - 500 mgc but if you can get around 24 degs at full noise it will make good power.
If it were me, I would get rid of the boost compensated fuel pressure regulator as we don’t know the ratio - just run the stock regulator but leave the reference line connected to the manifold ie on the discharge side of the blower. There should be a 1/4” BSPT fitting right there on runner #7. But as manifold pressure increases it will work as it should.
For the tune, just change the Base Injector Rate to suit your injectors. In the stock tune, this is 362. As an example, mine with 42 lb injectors was 190. Yours with 60 lb injectors would be probably around 160 or less. You would also need to adjust the rest of the injector parameters based on the data from your injectors too ie Min Injector Base Pulse Width etc etc
From there, just start with the stock tune. Easiest starting point would be to pick a HSV stroker auto or manual tune from the memcal ID chart. If its MAF based, do yourself a favour and start with the Enhanced Code from The1.
You will find you will need to pull some timing out as the manifold starts to make a positive pressure. For me this is around the 450 - 500 mgc but if you can get around 24 degs at full noise it will make good power.