Can't find a large ID concentric slave, do they even exist?

[vlad01]

So, hit a dead end with the slave sizing. So my other options is to cut and weld the input shafts together using aT5 donor shaft. But that depends if the T5 one will fit through the Toyota font seal or not. The last option is to have a custom flywheel with the face extended some 70+ mm back and use a Toyota disk, who knows. I feel like taking the engine out and burning the damn car!

[VK_3800]

I'm not familiar with the setup so just spitballing here, I assume it's something like this with an extension/adapter to the original input shaft?
https://www.marks4wd.com/mfk129.html

Where does the bearing need to mount, on the front of the shiny tube or using some sort of spider legs back to the bell housing? Is there a possibility of using a very short/squat hydraulic bearing setup that will fit longitudinally in the smaller diameter section of the input shaft? If so you may be able to make a simple adapter to mount it that steps down from the bigger diameter, rather than the hydraulic assembly needing a larger inner diameter?

Otherwise it may be tempting to make up a custom slave before attempting weird things with the flywheel. Must be able to use common brake piston seals.

[vlad01]

That's basically the same bs conversion, Mark's 4x4 one. They simply don't work as intended.

The bearing mounts to a big steel tube that slides in and out of a webbing cast into the bellhousing/adapter housing. It always jams, gets dust and crap in it, jams again and the bearing flops around. I had the whole thing remade to much tighter tolerances, the original one was like 1.5mm tolerance and flopped around. I got it to somewhere less than 0.15mm without jamming up, but the throw of the Toyota fork and down sized slave was never enough to fully release the bearing, even the slave was on the verge of popping the piston out of the cylinder and the clutch only disengaged the last 1mm of pedal travel when cold, once the car warmed up, no disengagement.

The whole thing has been a nightmare, Toyota 4x4 number 4 and all had engine problems, one blew up. So get one with a good engine (Buick, which has been rock solid btw) and the car and conversion is a nightmare.

Not my cars, but my nephew's. Somehow I end up always fixing someone else's pos

It's like the countless Ford trauma when I was in my 20s. Everyone had a heap of junk E series or some other even worse Ford and I was the one replacing head gaskets, door handles, rust repairs, welding up and milling heads that got eaten out by bad factory coolant. Don't get me started on the alternator belts and electrical gremlins on those heaps lol Front rotors and bearings on B series! ffs.

My older brother just bought a broken diesel territory despite me trying to talk him out of it, I refuse to touch it!

Just having a rant

[hjtrbo]

Put a barra in it and be done with it.

[Charlescrown]

Cutting and welding another input shaft is OK as long as the welder does a good job. It will never be subjected to more torque than the engine can put out.

[vlad01]

Looking at seeing if Dellow do a conversion kit, they do one for the Hilux with the same gearbox and as far as I can see, their kit doesn't extent the shaft, rather a whole new bell housing and clutch to suit the Toyota box and fork setup.

The current setup, the engine is only about 50mm from the radiator, that's even with the fan mounted on the front.

Barra jokes aside, if you went barra, the engine would be hanging out of the bullbar by a long way

If the Dellow route works, the sump would probably need modding as the engine will move back at least 70mm I would imagine.

[hjtrbo]

You're missing out lol

https://www.facebook.com/reel/407899255522852