cars: Td Gemini coupe (race car WIP) Holden VE SS ute (tow car/daily) Vp commodore V6 (race car, s/c, e85, intercooled) Jeep Grand Cherokee Overland (mrs car, family bus) My12 subaru STi (Weekend warrior/Toy) 1972 LJ torana GTR (my Dad's car) Mitsubishi Evo IX
Dylan wrote:Sorry for stupid question. But what model are these parts off and what model car are they now on?
Not a stupid question. They are vt sI lca's, knuckles, hubs and struts. I can give more details on bushes required and k frame mods if you are interested in doing something similar.
cars: Td Gemini coupe (race car WIP) Holden VE SS ute (tow car/daily) Vp commodore V6 (race car, s/c, e85, intercooled) Jeep Grand Cherokee Overland (mrs car, family bus) My12 subaru STi (Weekend warrior/Toy) 1972 LJ torana GTR (my Dad's car) Mitsubishi Evo IX
Camber is racecarish. Lol. Goes from about 4deg to around 10deg with suspension concepts strut tops. Heaps of caster too. I wouldn't recommend it for a road car. I have 88mm increased track. That's 44mm a side.
Dylan wrote:Sorry for stupid question. But what model are these parts off and what model car are they now on?
Not a stupid question. They are vt sI lca's, knuckles, hubs and struts. I can give more details on bushes required and k frame mods if you are interested in doing something similar.
Fitted to vp commodore.
Interesting mod, just to clarify, VT arms give 35mm extra track per side over VR/VS? Whats the difference between VT SI and the VT SII onwards arm?
cars: Td Gemini coupe (race car WIP) Holden VE SS ute (tow car/daily) Vp commodore V6 (race car, s/c, e85, intercooled) Jeep Grand Cherokee Overland (mrs car, family bus) My12 subaru STi (Weekend warrior/Toy) 1972 LJ torana GTR (my Dad's car) Mitsubishi Evo IX
35mm side on side over vn/vp lca's. Also had to relocate the inner pivot, yielding an extra 19mm per side. The vt II setup has a different ball joint setup. Vt I uses a pinch connection on the steering knuckle where vt II uses a taper. Other than that I can't really tell you much more as I haven't had my hands on vt II lca's.
cars: Td Gemini coupe (race car WIP) Holden VE SS ute (tow car/daily) Vp commodore V6 (race car, s/c, e85, intercooled) Jeep Grand Cherokee Overland (mrs car, family bus) My12 subaru STi (Weekend warrior/Toy) 1972 LJ torana GTR (my Dad's car) Mitsubishi Evo IX
see if you can link the sway bar further out towards the hubs, that will give better bar effectiveness.
having the connection point further in adds leverage advantage to the strut reducing the effective "size" of the sway bar. ideally having it connected to the strut itself would at lease bring the effectiveness back to stock level, but I reckon the best solution is a custom thicker and wider bar to utilize the mount on the strut and be able to use off the shelf links.
I'm the director of VSH (Vlad's Spec Holden), because HSV were doing it ass about.
cars: Td Gemini coupe (race car WIP) Holden VE SS ute (tow car/daily) Vp commodore V6 (race car, s/c, e85, intercooled) Jeep Grand Cherokee Overland (mrs car, family bus) My12 subaru STi (Weekend warrior/Toy) 1972 LJ torana GTR (my Dad's car) Mitsubishi Evo IX
The position is adjustable and can be moved further out. This is my starting point, as it is in line with the stock mounting point. I think it will possibly need to be moved in anyhow, as the vt sway bar has longer legs and therefore more leverage side to side than the vp bar. Believe it or not, there is some method to the way I'm setting it up.
should make a massive difference!
