Vlad's rides thread

[HQ355]

Grumpy vlad

[vlad01]

Yeah it was you that suggested several pages back. Anyway as per our last convo about coatings you can see in the pic how well vht did on 220k and 6 years.

[vlad01]

I already said I'd get them coated. Satin black ceramic inside and out.

Sorry mate. A lot goes on in this thread. I must have missed it. Looking great.

Sorry I thought you were big g for a bit. Can't see who's who on my phones tiny screen. I had this same convo few hours ago with him. I'm like geez G can't you remember? Maybe that tig welding fried your brain lol.

[TdracerTd]

I already said I'd get them coated. Satin black ceramic inside and out.

Sorry mate. A lot goes on in this thread. I must have missed it. Looking great.

Sorry I thought you were big g for a bit. Can't see who's who on my phones tiny screen. I had this same convo few hours ago with him. I'm like geez G can't you remember? Maybe that tig welding fried your brain lol.

No worries man. I have been told I come across a little abrasive. I don't mean anything by it.

[Gareth]

[vlad01]

While I was out doing a job I wasn't too far from eagle auto parts.

So I picked up a set of NOS axles. At $85 each I don't even bother removing the old bearings lol.

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Also I did some research on ARP bolts to use for my tail shaft as the originals go a bit sad in most cases trying to unbolt them or reusing more than once.

I didn't plan on buying any as I did not have a sample, but they had ARP on the shelf and i was like..."pretty sure these are the part number... oooo these look like they'll fit!"

Bought them anyway. Bingo! perfect! and they were like the 2nd pack I looked at on the wall out of hundreds. The bolts I had in mind were universal misc but I saw these and they had the shank I was after that the planned bolts didn't.

The nuts are CrMo M10 x 1.25 with 16 or so mm flange and 12mm 12 point hex. Sold a generic set of 10.

The bolts were to be similar as above at 25mm long threaded all the way as thats all ARP have to offer for generic bolts.

I saw a set which was for 4AG toyota flywheel which is shanked and 25mm long M10 x 1.25. Oddly the head is 1/2" on a metric thread, only in merica

The only mod which I knew before I had to do, is the diff flange needs a half mm or so notched out to clear the nut. The original nuts were special one off design holden used that doesn't exist else where. 15mm hex on M10 and the flats sit against the lip on the flange to self lock when tightening so one spanner can be used.

The new nuts are I think 15.6? mm flange so just a nick to clear it and its sweet! They are super strong too. Rated at 200,000psi where class 10.9 is 150,000psi, Not that I've broken stock bolts before, but certainly rattled them loose a lot of times in my old car. Biggest advantage is I'll be able to torque them up a lot more preventing them from moving in a hurry.

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[VK_3800]

The original nuts are metal locking (steel version of nyloc) if I recall correctly which are only intended for single use, pain in the neck (and why you have rattled them loose). I just use good old high tensile split washers and they work fine. I'd be tempted to use a thread locker and decent torque with those flat flanged nuts but depends how often you expect to remove them.

[vlad01]

I was just going to use loctite but really properly torqued arp using their lube shouldn't come loose. My old bolts often came loose as they had been on and off about 6 times and abusive treatment gave them a work out just like the bolts holding the rear control arms lol. Had them pop loose few times too. Mostly due to hard acceleration on rutted roads which are all roads except in the highways of Melbourne.

[Holden202T]

so the only question i have now is, whats the ARP part number ?

[vlad01]

Yes I thought someone would ask. I'll get them tonight.