Jayme wrote:I changed mine a few months ago.... it was tricky.... hard to maneuver around to get the mount in and out, I may have removed the alternator... cant rememeber lol....
to do mine, I loosened the drivers engine mount and gearbox mounts, and just put a jack under the engine to lift it up enough to get the mount out.... (it was collapsed so not too hard) new one was a really tight fit (not collapsed.... bigger) ... I had to remove something from the engine (coils maybe) to stop them fouling on the brake booster so I could lift the engine up enough to get it in. good luck.
and yes... we found out mine was rooted the same way... a mate felt the thump of the engine dropping after I had the boot into it...
![driving :driving:](./images/smilies/driving.gif)
im like "ohhhh thats what that is" lol
Thanks Jayme, this is exactly the sort of information I want & need.
I'm hoping that I can just lift the engine up high enough with the trolley jack to get the old mount out, which I'm assuming is completely collapsed, and still have enough clearance to fit the new mount which of course would be taller. I've read elsewhere that some people have lowered their K-Frames, while others have said it's not necessary, some say you need to remove the exhaust manifold and now you're telling me that I may have to remove the alternator and/or coils to get the job done. I'm trying to understand what's involved so I can decide whether or not I really want to put the car up on stands and crawl under it to do this as I begin my 50th year of life, or is it just a prick of a job and I'd be better off facing the fact that I'm getting too old for this shit and that I'd be better of paying a competent mechanic to do it for me.
Which has just prompted my next questions.
Should I replace both or only the one I know to be defective?
What is a new genuine engine mount worth?
What would it cost to have a mechanic supply and fit it/them?
Again, everyone's input is very much appreciated.
Thanks.
Chuff