I'm not sure what you mean by too much power? you need to understand that the reaction torque from the axle in a live axles is placed on the suspension then back to the engine, unlike IRS where its placed onto the diff mount and back to the engine. So IRS gets local chassis twist where the axles and suspension are independent mostly and live axle get global twist (aka car standing on the one wheel)
If you have a rear engine car with transaxle, there is no engine to diff twist as they are one unit and the reaction torque is all within the transaxle and belhousing casting. And since the powertrain unit is mounted in the subframe they only ever experience squat at the rear and wheel hop there can only exist via poor engine mounts and axle shaft harmonics. Personally been there with this particular configuration. Engine mounts in my case but I have seen axles do it and subframe flexing.
4L60-E Problems. Help.
- vlad01
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Re: 4L60-E Problems. Help.
I'm the director of VSH (Vlad's Spec Holden), because HSV were doing it ass about.
Re: 4L60-E Problems. Help.
I'll let you believe what you want because the others are right this has gone to far off the OP.
Re: 4L60-E Problems. Help.
Well it's all back together now and late last night the trannie was finally back in the car. Short test drive verified all 4 gears were working fine.
The cause of the problem was obviously the broken anchor point of the 2-4 band. That became apparent as soon as the band came out. Unfortunately, the damage on the anchor point clearly indicated that part of it had been ripped off, and was now somewhere in the gearbox, so a complete tear-down was required in order to find and remove the broken piece, and that's exactly what I did. I found the piece that had been ripped off and I am absolutely certain no part was left behind to float around in the gearbox.
In my previous posts I mentioned the state of the clutches and seals were pretty much brand new, I believe as a result of a recent rebuild, so the only part that was replaced was the 2-4 band. Reassembly went perfectly with the exception of 1 hiccup. I spent a good hour trying to get the pump back on, and no matter what I did, it just would not drop into place. I eventually realized that this was because I had already put the turbine shaft "O" ring back onto the turbine shaft and this was stopping the pump from being lowered. Item 618 in the picture below. Removed the "O" ring and the pump literally drop into place.
Sadly, the story doesn't end there. Junior rang this morning after driving to work and was complaining that it wasn't going into "overdrive". I immediately feared the worst. A few quick questions and it was established that the gearbox was shifting from 3rd to 4th (overdrive), but the torque converter clutch (TCC) wasn't locking up. I know I assembled everything correctly, and as the TCC solenoid was the only solenoid in the valve body loom that was hard wired, unlike all the other electronics which had plugs, there is very little chance that the wiring is the problem.
I've read over the years during my self education into these gearboxes that sometimes after reassembly the TCC can be sticky and may not engage, and if so, shifting back & forth between 3rd & 4th would sometimes rectify the problem. How much truth there is to this I have no idea, but it's worth a try. Unfortunately Junior was already at work so he never had the chance to run through this process. He will do so on the way home tonight.
I'm interested in anyones opinions or experiences with the TCC not locking up, and what other possible scenarios could be the cause.
Thanks.
Chuff
The cause of the problem was obviously the broken anchor point of the 2-4 band. That became apparent as soon as the band came out. Unfortunately, the damage on the anchor point clearly indicated that part of it had been ripped off, and was now somewhere in the gearbox, so a complete tear-down was required in order to find and remove the broken piece, and that's exactly what I did. I found the piece that had been ripped off and I am absolutely certain no part was left behind to float around in the gearbox.
In my previous posts I mentioned the state of the clutches and seals were pretty much brand new, I believe as a result of a recent rebuild, so the only part that was replaced was the 2-4 band. Reassembly went perfectly with the exception of 1 hiccup. I spent a good hour trying to get the pump back on, and no matter what I did, it just would not drop into place. I eventually realized that this was because I had already put the turbine shaft "O" ring back onto the turbine shaft and this was stopping the pump from being lowered. Item 618 in the picture below. Removed the "O" ring and the pump literally drop into place.
Sadly, the story doesn't end there. Junior rang this morning after driving to work and was complaining that it wasn't going into "overdrive". I immediately feared the worst. A few quick questions and it was established that the gearbox was shifting from 3rd to 4th (overdrive), but the torque converter clutch (TCC) wasn't locking up. I know I assembled everything correctly, and as the TCC solenoid was the only solenoid in the valve body loom that was hard wired, unlike all the other electronics which had plugs, there is very little chance that the wiring is the problem.
I've read over the years during my self education into these gearboxes that sometimes after reassembly the TCC can be sticky and may not engage, and if so, shifting back & forth between 3rd & 4th would sometimes rectify the problem. How much truth there is to this I have no idea, but it's worth a try. Unfortunately Junior was already at work so he never had the chance to run through this process. He will do so on the way home tonight.
I'm interested in anyones opinions or experiences with the TCC not locking up, and what other possible scenarios could be the cause.
Thanks.
Chuff
˙ʎɐqǝ ɟɟo pɹɐoqʎǝʞ ǝsǝuıɥɔ ɐ ƃuıʎnq ɹoɟ ʇɥƃıɹ ǝɯ sǝʌɹǝs
Re: 4L60-E Problems. Help.
Never mind. I think I might have figured it out.Chuff wrote:I spent a good hour trying to get the pump back on, and no matter what I did, it just would not drop into place. I eventually realized that this was because I had already put the turbine shaft "O" ring back onto the turbine shaft and this was stopping the pump from being lowered. Item 618 in the picture below.
Taken from page 103 from the 4L60E Technical Guide:
˙ʎɐqǝ ɟɟo pɹɐoqʎǝʞ ǝsǝuıɥɔ ɐ ƃuıʎnq ɹoɟ ʇɥƃıɹ ǝɯ sǝʌɹǝs
Re: 4L60-E Problems. Help.
Hmmm.. I guess with all that struggle getting it in might have damaged that O-ring seal?
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Contact for Software/Hardware development and Reverse Engineering
Site:https://www.envyouscustoms.com
Mob:+61406 140 726
Re: 4L60-E Problems. Help.
Yeh, but hey, it's only a 5 second job to replace the O ring once the box is out.Tazzi wrote:Hmmm.. I guess with all that struggle getting it in might have damaged that O-ring seal?
˙ʎɐqǝ ɟɟo pɹɐoqʎǝʞ ǝsǝuıɥɔ ɐ ƃuıʎnq ɹoɟ ʇɥƃıɹ ǝɯ sǝʌɹǝs
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Re: 4L60-E Problems. Help.
You'll be getting good at that job then
Re: 4L60-E Problems. Help.
Didn't even bother looking for something like this before removing the transmission, as it would more than likely need to be out of the car for a while, and a true evaluation done to establish what had failed and what was going to be needed in order to repair it. The old "Hope for the best, prepare for the worse" scenario. Allowing for the possibility that a full tear-down may be required, the transmission was going to have to be removed in our carport while the car was up on chassis stands, thereby leaving the garage available for repairs. Now, as everyone knows, removing a transmission from a car while it is up on chassis stands is a lot of fun at the best of times, but our carport is topped with Lilydale Topping, which added that little bit extra to the fun factor.
This time, however, I'm 97.5% certain that it's the turbine shaft "O" ring, so on an off chance, I went Googling, and found this:
https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/wandin- ... 1060278438
If it takes longer than 2 hours to replace the O ring, or I break a sweat doing it, then I'm doing something wrong. And it's only going to cost $30.
This time, however, I'm 97.5% certain that it's the turbine shaft "O" ring, so on an off chance, I went Googling, and found this:
https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/wandin- ... 1060278438
If it takes longer than 2 hours to replace the O ring, or I break a sweat doing it, then I'm doing something wrong. And it's only going to cost $30.
˙ʎɐqǝ ɟɟo pɹɐoqʎǝʞ ǝsǝuıɥɔ ɐ ƃuıʎnq ɹoɟ ʇɥƃıɹ ǝɯ sǝʌɹǝs