Man was the paint roasted to the shithouse on the bonnet. Used all but 4L to take off the top and haven't even started on the bottom side, though that sould come off easier as it has not be exposed to sunlight.
Was different experience taking it off on the bonnet. Instead of it dissolving like melted butter, it dissolved and then crystallized in the form of the underlying crows feet yet to physically show up, basically crows feet still in its development stage at a chemical level. So what it felt like was it starting off ok for the first 10 sec or so and dissolving and then suddenly hardening of sharp crystal like rough surface that the cloths just imediately got stuck to like velcro.
Here is why.
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nasty! like trying to drag the micro fiber cloth over 80 grit sand paper.
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Was a real shit fight. I found an alternative method that worked well. I got ordinary rags, soaked them dripping wet with acetone and then laid them over the surface, worked it flat to the surface to ensure constant acetone contact to the paint and let it sit for good 5-10min or so per section and adding to the acetone as it soaked into the paint and evaporated. I then quickly proceeded with a wet rags of acetone in micro fiber and quickly moped it all up before the paint dried up again to form the weird crystalline substance that resisted further acetone if attempted again.
Also all bolt locking tabs and under the rails and general areas of the k-frame cleaned, ready to nip up with just 2 bolt at a temp measure for painting. New bolts are the plan with a new k-frame as I can get nos ones for 100 bucks and not worth the effort in cleaning and masking the old one as that will be sacrificed for painting, this and future cars.
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Got 2 door trims off, will take the other 2 off tomorrow and then look at very carefully peeling off the membranes as they are still in quite good nick considering the age. Very little cracking on them so they are worth reusing and deserve a bit of love to repair the minor cracks provided I don't destroy them trying to remove them.
Also quickly whipped this cut file up, also induced an SVG export for anyone wanting to cut their own. Its for the foam seal that goes between the starter and the bell-housing dust cover. The factory is just a strip of a foam tape but due to the radii on the cover it doesn't conform very well and tends to come off around the bends. So I am making a profiled seal and I pretty much have little choice as I have a few sheets of high quality foam gasket self adhesive material here and its designed for high temp industrial applications. 1. its as a sheet. 2. other alternatives is the cheap shit bunnings weather seals which perish in normal conditions in a matter of a year. So going for option 1. VHS myself a seal better than factory.
I'm the director of VSH (Vlad's Spec Holden), because HSV were doing it ass about.
