265 Hemi to efi

Converting To Delco ECU From Carby Or Other Injection Systems
Charlescrown
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Re: 265 Hemi to efi

Post by Charlescrown »

I'm sure you can rely on the BW35 to let you down. They struggled to last behind a 4 cylinder. I wonder how much trouble it would be to fit a Torqueflite. We used to run well over 1500HP through them. Being both made by Chrysler although I think that series of engine was only fitted to Australian cars.
heff0018
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Re: 265 Hemi to efi

Post by heff0018 »

Charlescrown wrote:I'm sure you can rely on the BW35 to let you down. They struggled to last behind a 4 cylinder. I wonder how much trouble it would be to fit a Torqueflite. We used to run well over 1500HP through them. Being both made by Chrysler although I think that series of engine was only fitted to Australian cars.
Yeah I have a torqueflite trans but they don’t fit up to a normal block and not the Ute block. fortunately I do have a couple of the special torquefilte blocks. It’s on the list, torqueflite block, forged pistons and crank girdle.
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delcowizzid
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Re: 265 Hemi to efi

Post by delcowizzid »

Manual bellhousing and powerglide maybe lol
If Its Got Gas Or Ass Count Me In.if it cant be fixed with a hammer you have an electrical problem
heff0018
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Re: 265 Hemi to efi

Post by heff0018 »

People have fitted powerglides to just about everything.
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Re: 265 Hemi to efi

Post by heff0018 »

Bit of an update from the tuner and Power is now 265 rwhp at 4800rpm with not much advance. There is now an electrical gremlin where there appears to be voltage loss with the tps which is affecting the tune at WOT. This was discussed in much detail with a lot going straight over the top of my head but my uneducated offerings were 1) I know that the guys who originally installed the turbo hardware moved the earths from under the head bolts to some where else on the block, 2) the alternator is 40amps and shouldn’t have much load on it but was a used unit and was originally putting out 13.5v but may have crapped itself along the way. He is going to test both these two next week and see if he can work out what the problem is. At the moment the electrical issue is a mystery.
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Gareth
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Re: 265 Hemi to efi

Post by Gareth »

Try not to fixate on the overall number, concentrate on what it does in the areas that you will actually drive it in, which judging by what you mentioned in a previous post has much improved :thumbup:

Surely the tuner would notice a crapped alternator pretty quickly so I'd be surprised if that is your issue base on what you described. Could it be that the little plastic cap is missing from the throttle body shaft causing your low WOT TPS voltage???
According to chemistry, alcohol is a solution...
heff0018
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Re: 265 Hemi to efi

Post by heff0018 »

Biggvl wrote: Could it be that the little plastic cap is missing from the throttle body shaft causing your low WOT TPS voltage???
Could be, I haven’t heard of that one.
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Re: 265 Hemi to efi

Post by heff0018 »

The sensor voltage problem ended up being a faulty alternator. Rear wheel horsepower hit 280 at 5200rpm before cylinder 3 gave up. The tuner reckons it can take another 6 degrees of timing yet.

It is suspected that the ring gap was not enough, the ring expanded under heat and popped the top off the piston. I will find out when I pull it down.

Hopefully if the bore is still ok I can just replace a piston, increase the ring gaps on all pistons and press on.
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Holden202T
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Re: 265 Hemi to efi

Post by Holden202T »

oh man that sucks :(
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Re: 265 Hemi to efi

Post by heff0018 »

Funny Sam, I just don't think much of it any more I just pull the fucking thing apart again. At least all the bolts are easy to undo.

On another note

I am measuring up the clearances in a second hand 265 torqueflite block motor. All clearances so far are good except the no 2 cylinder conrod side clearance is 0.015”. A number of others are 0.004” and average is around 0.009”. The maximum per the manual is 0.013". Strange considering all other clearances are reasonably tight but this one is way out. From other info I have read some people say 0.015" is ok but I am not sure, I wouldn't want to hear a dreaded knock from the motor.

I will measure that rod widths and see if I can swap a rod over to reduce the clearance.

I was going to run forged pistons but there are other people getting big horsepower out of stock pistons with adequate ring gap. I like that idea.

First thing I am going to do is check the ring gap on the no 2 piston that died and that will give me an idea of what ring gap is a problem. This may be a bit simplistic as there is also bore wear to consider but its a start. Tuner reckons 0.004" increase above stock recommended gap should be about right for boosted applications.

Recommendation - if anyone is boosting a stock motor, pull the pistons out and increase the ring gap. It will save you a heap of trouble down the track.
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