It's always a good day when car parts arrive
A big thanks to Steve @ MACE for organising this for me. From Melbourne to my door in under a week.
Ohh, can anybody remember what size bolts are used on the old balancer to remove it? I've lost mine so need to buy some more
Also, on a positive note, since doing the rear shocks and diff mount the car has transformed how it drives. Corners much better and flatter which i'm really surprised about. The ass end is no longer like a big soft couch like a standard Calais. I like it
oldn64 wrote:immortality wrote:Back to the Subaru again...
New/more symptoms.
The boy noted some times it takes longer to heat up than other times which explains the fault coder 128 (thermostat). It's now also throwing a code 15 but that doesn't seem to match anything for this model car?
It's driven fine for 4 days, today on his way home it wouldn't start. When it won't start it's like it has a bad battery, basically it won't turn it over (battery is less than 1 year old and is fully charged). When it was idling rough he checked the fuel pressure which was about 36psi.
I'm starting to think it's a slowly failing timing sensor (cam or crank, not sure what the Subaru has)? Any thoughts or suggestions on how to test or diagnose?
Thanks
Hmmm this is almost starting to sound like an electrical issue. IE a loose ground or resistive connection. Might be worthwhile reseating all plugs to ECU and the wiring loom. I have had a similar issue on my VE SS s2 for the oil sensor. The sensor is find but the plug is not so good. I am almost to the stage of trying to find another wiring harness to swap it over. Dont ignore the fuse block. It is amazing what a reseat of a fuse can do. I know it is a pain but it costs nothing and I have fixed a number of issues this way. IF there is also a perished boot then the connector will not seal from the elements properly either.
Cheers
oldn64
It is odd. I've already gone through and done the earths. I have pulled some fuses and relays but not all. It's got me stumped however more and more I suspect either the crank sensor or cam sensor. What ever it is, it is slowly getting worse. Sometimes it runs fine 3 or 4 days but now it's getting a little more frequent. Last time he drove it, it played up a little (started running a little rough) during the drive but then cleared itself and continued on fine. We checked it twice yesterday and it started and idled fine.