pcmhacking.net

Lol,i think i hold onto parts too long.
I should be sponsored by ebay as most of the parts on this car are ebayed.
The extractors were fairly cheap because of no flanges. The intermediate was $25 because it was sitting in a blokes sisters backyard and she was sick of tripping over it.
Its a 3'" into a 2"3/4 and a standard muffler which i cut up and added straight through pipes. I picked up a complete VE SS exhaust just for the bolt on flanges and welded them up to mine.Unbolting the whole exhaust is now a breeze.
I drilled out the spotwelds and removed the bracket that holds the cruise module/ABS under the bonnet.
This helped when removing/refitting the driverside extractor when i had to tack things in place for the flanges etc.
Just the oil filler cap needs to come off to get the RH out. I also added an extra bung if want to run the Motec PLM from the munro. Soooo thats the exhaust side completed.

More tomorrow......
I've added a couple more pics

I was in 2 minds about going with the tuff mounts or the stock engine mounts.
Cost wise and trying to keep the $ down and it is a "play" car,i went with stock mounts.
I also fitted a later model p/s rack which i picked up for a good price....wasnt sure if V6 were the same (clearance around the sump) so i didnt muck around.
Engine,trans,exhaust and all mounts all fitted up.
A/C and all the stuff not required was removed. I had to chase up coolant reservoir,all new rad hoses etc.
Another little problem i had was the radiator fans.As i thought i had a VY loom,i ended up getting a VY radiator and fan set up. (more on that later)

OK......The electricals (not my strongest point,but i somehow manage).
Here it goes I have a VY auto body loom - VY auto LS1 ECM - VY BCM/key - VX auto LS1 engine loom and i wanted it to fit in a VT S1 V6 auto
Simple,modify the looms,get the VATS off,put it all together and make it run as an LS1 manual
Well first off,i wanted to make sure ALLthe sensors and instruments/guages worked if i wanted to check for faults if i had to borrow a Tech2.
As i layed the looms out i noticed the VY body loom plugs were different to the VX engine loom.The VT-VX has the 3-4 connector blocks that sit on the RH rear of the strut tower.
The VY body loom doesnt then i wasnt 100% sure if the pinouts of the VY ECM was correct for the VX engine loom (2 or 3 wiring diagrams show differences)
I didn't want fry or damage my ECM or wiring from being unsure....and i did check a few times,so for the sake of it all i chased up a VTS2 LS1 manual engine loom and ECM.
I wanted to move the ECM from its original position of the LH strut tower to inside the cabin.
Just had to unpick the tape and lengthen 1 wire (reservoir coolant level sensor) and put it all through the 1 grommet in the firewall...job done and neater.
ECM will be finally mounted once the cage goes in. More later

Yeah still coming along nicely, & never liked the idea of the PCM on chassis rail right beside headers so nice work there too!

Nothing better than heat,vibration and whatever else that can be thrown at the PCM under the bonnet.
Cont:
What i ended up doing was using my existing V6 body/instrument loom and the original low level BCM.
This let me keep my original ignition key/barrel which is linked to my BCM (1 less hassle)
The next thing was that the V6 is UART serial data (i think)and the GEN3 PCM communicates through class 2 serial data which is converted to UART serial data
through the P/train Interface Module (PIM)and then sent to the BCM and instrument cluster.
NOW...this meant i had to chase up a (PIM) (which sits in the LHF kick panel).
I also fitted a VX SS cluster to my dash.
Surprisingly the LS1 engine loom plug pinouts almost matched up to the V6 body loom/BCM.
Delete a couple of wires and add an extra wire from the PIM to the diagnostic connector under the dash was all that was needed.
Once all the wiring from V6 to LS1 was converted,the next thing to be done was link the BCM to the PCM and then to the PIM.
A Tech2 would be required to do this.
Meanwhile i was fitting the starter/alternator wiring in between the brain drain of the above saga.
I forgot to mention that an LS1 fuel line harness and pump was fitted as well since the V8 lines are a bigger diameter.

As it was getting more difficult borrowing a Tech2 from work,I had noticed the influx of chinese copy Tech2's hitting the market.
A workmate had just bought one and i had been thinking about getting one for the track car to make sure all that i had done was gonna
work..eg wiring,linking,sensors and DTCs.
I bit the bullet and bought one as well.
These Tech2s come with chev software,but i updated my card with Holden software.
After linking the PCM and BCM everything was going except...linking of the PIM to BCM and PCM.
I had trouble getting the PIM to link and learn the "password" for theft deterrent.
I tried a few times to get it to link but failed...
This requires - 1hr10mins ignition on then ignition off for 30 secs then repeat 2 more times...a total of 3hrs and 30 odd minutes.
Password learn failed about 4 times,that was 14 hours or so stuffing around.
The car would start and then shut down.The PIM hadn't learnt the "password" and shut the injectors down.
To say it was getting to me was an understatement.
I was thinking that i may have stuffed up some wiring or done something wrong or missed something,double checking this and that.
I knew it had to be the PIM password/VATS.
A workmate had a PCM with VATS disabled and lent it to me to try out.
It fired first go and kept running,so i was relieved that my wiring etc was OK.
Then it was back to my PCM and PIM to learn again,then it dawned on me when selecting on the Tech2 to do the "learn"
procedure,i was pressing the wrong "Enter" key to highlight an asterix to begin the learn mode. (the tech2 has 2 enter keys)DOH!!
3hr and 30 minutes later....it was time to find out.......FINALLY i did it right

More later!

i would have just disabled vats

Geez Holden202T then my story would have been boring
I wish i could have disabled VATS but i dont have anything to suck the tune out of LS1 stuff.
What can i use besides efi-live and hp tuners which eventually i'll get later down the track.

Onto the diff....
After playing around with the rear cradle,the 4 top diff bolts are a pain to undo on the ground.
A big breaker bar and pipe is usually required,plus the rear stab bar sits over the 2 front bolts.
I decided to make it easier for future removal if needed.
The diff sits directly under the middle seat/ski porthole of the floor.
The 2 outer holes are the stab bar bolts and the 2 inner are the front diff bolts.
Undoing 1 stab bar bolt and moving it with my fingers is enough to uncover the 2 diff bolt heads. The rear bolt holes were through 2 panels and i put steel tubes in them,i then cover the holes with rubber grommets.

LMAO, nice work yeah I always have to use a short spanner & pry bar to crack them up in the car & fits under sway bar but drilling holes would make it easier & nice work on the support tubes for section cut out!

P.S. yeah agree with 202 disab vats, but yeah would have made story boring! In the future if you want to send PCM to me I can disable vats & alter tune (mafless) for you if you send reply satchel!

Thanks VX,i may need to take up your offer in the near future. (paying ofcourse) I'm in Seaford.

Cont:
Another little thing i did was utilise the auto trans cooler that came with the car.
I by-passed the radiator and tapped into the low pressure side of the power steering line through the A/Trans cooler and back to the reservoir....should keep the fluid a little cooler. I was going to use these 16" wheels that came with the car I really wanted to go 17 or 18's if something came up.
Then a workmate mentioned that he was buying new wheels for his ute and i asked what he was doing with his old 17" VY ss wheels.
He said he was doing nothing with them as they are scratched,faded etc.
I offered to buy them if he wanted to sell them,so i got them for $100.00 All the tyres are pretty good too. Now...to make the bugger stop:
These HSV rear calipers (EBC red or green pads)and just about new RDA gold 315mm rotors came up on ebay starting at $200.00,i offered him $350.00 but he wanted more.
No one else bid on them and i got them for $200.00 Thats the rear taken care of !

Next up...Front brakes.
I'd been keeping an eye on the 330mm brakes off the HSVs for a while and kept on getting outbid (sometimes silly prices)
These were a buy now from Q/land but it was pick up only (i'm in Vic) but i thought i'd try my luck emailing him if he would post....$290.00 delivered
(maybe braided lines later but a mate races historics and they still run the standard hoses and says they are fine) except my hoses exit the the pipes on the body
at a different angle being non abs.
Brakes just about sorted

So you put the power steering line through the trans cooler just before it goes back to the reservoir?