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Good to see some pics and info on the Z Has certainly had some mods done to it during the build.

Holden202T wrote:ps. your ignition module looks like its had a few running modifications I don't have on mine hehe.

Has had more mods than I can remember over the last few months! It had even more for awhile. Most of the extra parts are on the rev3 boards, this is a rev2 and the 360+6 optical trigger proved to be fairly difficult to work with About the only plus side to having 360 dizzy slots is the cranking timing can be adjusted in 2deg increments

VL400 wrote:About the only plus side to having 360 dizzy slots is the cranking timing can be adjusted in 2deg increments

not sure if thats going to allow fine enough adjustments ???

Its certainly a lot of slots to count when the RPM gets up there. But it does it and translates to an 808 compatible signal

be glad no-one had previously fitted the wheel upside down it would of caused more headaches LOL

At one stage we were having sync errors and I suspected it may be upside down. The two holes next to the keyed center hole make sure it can only go one way up!!

An update, finally....

Well the Zed has come a long way in the last half of 2013. All systems are pretty much functional and we have had some successful road tests already. We are using VL400's ignition module and it is running without missing a beat these days. Turns out the early days of getting that working were hampered by some dodgy optical crank angle sensors originally sourced from the wrecking yard. How many cars have been thrown away because of a simple sensor Antus wondered once at 'U Pull it'. At least one or two given how many dodgy Nissan optical crank angle sensors we went thru to find a good one...
Also some short footage of a recent run on our top secret GoAR test track (tunnel newly installed). Quite possibly the only video ever taken of a delco isuzu 2.0ltr chasing a delco nissan 3ltr....

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5rUWljw9hhQ[/youtube]

Another recent mod was needed since hitting the streets. Being able to estimate your speed is a good thing, but in the days of camera's everywhere and minimal tolerances I felt some accurate representation was best. Also the sound of a 3ltr blown V6 with a massive BOV and 3" exhaust also distracts you from trying to constantly guess if you are at a semi-legal velocity. With a faulty speedo, tacho and fuel gauge in the original Nissan dash cluster, the only logical $45 solution was to install and calibrate a VT commodore dash cluster!!
To make it super easy the VSS from a N13 pulsar sends the perfect signal for the VT speedo and screws straight into the Nissan BW T5 turbo 5spd manual transmission. Taken from a V6 commodore the tacho works perfectly with the Nissan V6. The temp sensors strangely talks serial so we are going to have work that one out. And the fuel sensor will need some thought put into it. Currently a full tank shows as empty, half full shows as full, and anything less than that is best guess.

good stuff!. might need to convert to the Auto pcm and 11P and leave the auto stuff off... it already has support for sending temp to the dash via serial

ant said it was going heaps better now .i saw one of these engines last week was converted to carby and was using a 202 holden dizzy of all things

nice work guys! although i have to wonder if you actually do any work in that shed ?? its too clean

Ha ha, the shed clean up was step one of a three day car bender that started Friday. A Holden Astra, Mitsi Pajero and then the 300ZX were all worked on in that space over the last three days. But that is where the Zed always sleeps come night time...

Jayme, the auto pcm + 11P update is definitely on the cards to drive the temp display in the dash. First we need to get the fuel injectors working in Rosco's 240Z before a track day on the 18th Jan. Mine's track ready until then, with the oil temp gauge and the delco 'check engine' light as over-temp warning signs.

DelcoWizz, the original ECU and electrics in the Z31 were so bad I am not surprised someone has converted it to a reliable old carburetor. I hate to think how many of this model have gone to the wrecking yard because of a simple but hard to diagnose sensor or electronic fault

Now another update on an issue I think I nailed today. Up until now I've had an issue until the engine has reached a good working temp (~70 deg C) where when you step on the accel the engine goes rich and almost stalls. It then picks up RPM and the AFR levels out, but you needed to ease in the throttle for the first few minutes of running otherwise it would flood and stall. It was pretty annoying but as we had bigger fish to fry I just accepted it for a while. Even once it was warmed up it would give a little cough and lag a bit when you stepped on the go from idle, occasionally stalling. It also left big black nasty marks on the grass or concrete where it was started and rev'd to warm up.

But today I went about resolving the problem, and here's what I did.

Firstly the VE table looked a little odd to me, way down low. You can see (left image below) the region 20-60 kPa from 0-2K RPM seemed to drop right away. To me this seemed a little strange, and I know we built the table with generally rich AFR results which probably screwed our calcs so I smoothed this out in respect to the rest of the table. Results below on the right.
Also I found the "MAP A: A/F Ration - Initial Run A/F Ratio Offset vs Coolant Temp' table which seemed to the reason I was getting target AFR of ~10:1 on startup. In the 30 deg C coolant region it was offsetting my target AFR down to 8.5:1, and leaving black soot marks on the floor of the shed. I changed the settings from original on the left below, to the new on the right below: A test run after these changes showed good results. It was running less rich and responded better to a tap on the go pedal. But it was still not right, giving a cough and for half a second sounding like it would stall before roaring to life. The AFR was still dropping to ~10:1 as this happened so I looked a little further and found the acceleration enrichment table "AE - AE temperature factor vs coolant temp'. Not really knowing what I was looking at, but knowing at a high temp that things were much better I adjusted the lower temp values accordingly. Not knowing where to go I threw roughly half values in at the critical start temperature (South Aussie summer) and smoothed things out either way. The change was immediate and awesome. No more black smoke and soot marks, no more coughs and half stalls, it just goes straight to angry Nissan V6 noise mode!!!
Before and after values below: Disclaimer - Now this was all done with the trial and error method and with no consultation with professionals, technical documentation, tea leaves or google. I did ask the dog what he thought about it but his input was negligible. The results seem good sitting in my shed, but until I borrow a trade plate or actually register the car the real world changes are unknown. I am just posting it here to gauge opinion and perhaps a warning in case I have changed something that I shouldn't have...