pcmhacking.net

next time I go to the wreckers I might raid a heap of ECUs. Ive got a few ECU but running out of memcals too. I killed one the other week when I soldered in a SST prom and the prom was faulty now I have a bricked memcal as unsoldering it will just butcher it.

I think I might socket them from now on lol.

ive done that before. snip legs off eeprom and unsolder one at a time, then put a machine drilled ic socket on it, jsut rest the pins on the memcal and solder. you wont get the lid on but you will get it wokring.

I did that the other week too. Soldered my ast eeprom to a memcal. Bloody thing is no good. Wont ID wont write or erase.

ive found some sst's recently have worked fine until soldered directly to a memcal. maybe low quality or dont like heat, but I just socket everything now.

What soldering iron you guys using?

Yeah heat is your enemy big time. The fine interconnects in the chip from the legs to the top of the ic have nowhere to sink the heat and once that interconnect solder melts and the wire falls of that pin is dead forever. Best solder 1 pin at a time a few apart, apply as minimal heat as possible and put you finger on top of the chip to test how much heat its absorved. Once its warmed up more than your comfortable with wait a while and or blow some air across it to cool it down.

The ICs i linked above are for batches of 10. I just grabbed 50 for about $70au posted before dropping the link incase you guys cleaned them out but thats hard to beat.

I have a rhino 60 watt temp controlled iron, tend to run it at 330 degrees c, but can get away with as low as 290 though thats really on the limit. You really should use a temp controlled electronics fine tip iron for this type of work and keep the fat non temp ones for thick automotive wiring.

At a minimum something like this https://rhinotools.com.au/product/solde ... ation-48w/

I picked the next one up because i was a sucker for the lcd temperature read out but i cant find that one now. Was random but its been solid for a couple of years now.

Think I might start using some sockets myself can't afford to be stuffing anymore of them.
Any local suppliers for the sockets?

Dylan wrote:Think I might start using some sockets myself can't afford to be stuffing anymore of them.
Any local suppliers for the sockets?

jaycar. would recommend machine sockets as they are industrial rated and much better quality.

antus wrote:Yeah heat is your enemy big time. The fine interconnects in the chip from the legs to the top of the ic have nowhere to sink the heat and once that interconnect solder melts and the wire falls of that pin is dead forever. Best solder 1 pin at a time a few apart, apply as minimal heat as possible and put you finger on top of the chip to test how much heat its absorved. Once its warmed up more than your comfortable with wait a while and or blow some air across it to cool it down.

The ICs i linked above are for batches of 10. I just grabbed 50 for about $70au posted before dropping the link incase you guys cleaned them out but thats hard to beat.

I have a rhino 60 watt temp controlled iron, tend to run it at 330 degrees c, but can get away with as low as 290 though thats really on the limit. You really should use a temp controlled electronics fine tip iron for this type of work and keep the fat non temp ones for thick automotive wiring.

At a minimum something like this https://rhinotools.com.au/product/solde ... ation-48w/

I picked the next one up because i was a sucker for the lcd temperature read out but i cant find that one now. Was random but its been solid for a couple of years now.

Yeah thats what I reckon killed the chip as I had trouble getting one of the receptacles to flow with solder and took longer than I should have.

The chip has a short in the address decoder or something as it programs in to places at once about 0x200 apart and cracks the shits when the 2 areas overlap data once getting to the 200 address after the starting point. This happens regardless of the offset used, always programs in 2 places and even crashes the programmer too as it shorts out VPP to ground it seems lol.

Ha Ha, I did that once and had smoke coming off the chip while it was in the programmer