pcmhacking.net

You will need an RPM input for the trans to shift, many things such as kickdown shift pounts are RPM dependant.

I'd seriously consider getting the PCM to control spark as delcowizzid suggested. But just like injectors, you dont need the ignition module or dizzy connected to the PCM. The tach signal from your existing spark setup will need some conditioning before being fed to the PCM for an RPM input though.

With proper timing control you will be amazed how good idle quality and cold starts can be with a carb still controlling fuel. If you dont get it controlling spark to begin with get it happening later.

Definately do something with regards to delco controlling spark, it is sort of the best of both world if you like.... Ease of carb tuning (please tell me you do have a holley on it and are actually running the rochester) and the smoothness of proper ignition. I have fried many ingnition systems before and what I ended up with in my VQ was a seriously great ignition BUT i kill coils now. This is an awesome way to go as it has everythign else perfect in the system. The ignition modules are now the weak point in these systems and generally need to be reworked. My system has been reworked so much that the coil has a heart attack each time it is told to fire and the spark is that fat that the car just bursts into life. Would be awesome turboed, but then the gearbox will go bang I hate the 4l60!!!!!!

The one thing you will need to sort if the cluster mods needed. if you can find speedo cable to drive off the 4L60e to keep the original speedo then the spedo itself has a 4 pulse per revolution from the cluster which can be used for your VSS if you wish to use the original dash, if not then you will need to sort out how you want to show speed. I have seen later model cars cluster retro fitted into the vl, but my personal favourite has been teh electronic mods to allow the original cluster to remain and a electronic drive and odo added.

Good luck and post pics as you go.

Cheers
Oldn64

Evening guys cheers for the input,
The speedo setup I am using is a vl speedo cable into a cableX to keep the original cluster. I also hate the 4l60e because of this.
After much reading over the posts i will put back on the EFI manifold and TB and run the $11P VP104 base tune and go from there.

Cheers Equada

Hi guys, bit further down the road now.
Got the engine running with carb conversion
- Holley 600 Elec choke
- MSD coil
- Bypass regulator and stand alone pump relay via oil pressure
- Proflow HEI distributor

On PCM i hook up
- TPS
- CTS
- VSS
- 4L60e plugs

Now need to figure what pinout is tach in reference to pcm to the ignition module?
This then will be run to my coil negative terminal in order to shift gears.

D14 DIST ref Signal
D13 DIST ref earth
D12 EST output
D11 IGN bypass Ctrl

Regards Equada

D14 but you won't be able to run straight from the coil negative into it or the ecu will die like vl400 said above it will require a conditioning circuit to bring the voltage out of the coil neg down to a stable lower voltage signal

Cheers mate,
Yes forgot to mention using a jaycar 12v to 5v converter which should be okay?

Regards Equada

No idea vl400 is the circuitry genius there will be a lot of high voltage spikes on the negative of the coil hopefully the jaycar convertor can suppress them

The coil negative will see voltages of 200-300v when the coil fires.
You need a conditioning circuit designed for it.

If the jaycar converter isn't designed for it, it will either fail or completely suppress the coil negative voltage and cause a missfire/no spark (all the coil energy will go to earth through your converter and not to your spark plugs)

Another option be an Arduino board?

I could use a hall effect pickup which will ensure 5v continous power via a regular 12v to 5v.

Then ill machine a magentic pickup and attach it to the crank pulley.

Could then use this for multiple engine applications.