pcmhacking.net

VK_3800 wrote:

Jayme wrote:not sure what you see on the rail but its definitely not a reg.

Probably the pulse damper

Just checked some manuals and yeh it's a pulse damper, so will get a regulator

In the conversion we just finished, we started with a VZ SSZ manual crewman doner. The customer was after a showie look with easy drivability, comfort and tones of grunt. The motor is one I built years ago and has a head and cam package, made around 400horses. Good fun car to drive in the crewman as a daily.

The customer supplied us with an aeroflow inlet, turbo 400 and an under dash a/c unit. We used the commodore power steer pump to run the HQ box with no issue. I speced the converter, had a tail shaft made, custom twin exhaust, used the fly by wire throttle (we will add cruise control one day). We used an Aeroflow phantom intake pump system, speed flow for almost all hoses, Aussie desert cooler provided the radiator and condenser, the trans cooler is aeroflow and is mounted in front or the RHF wheel in the arch.

From the rod shop we used their headers, crossmember (which needed modding by 2” to get the motor angle in the ball park ) and engine mounts.

It’s all fairly straight forward, after all it is the most swapped engine in the world. There’s tones of info out there.

The overall outcome exceeded my expectations, we have ended up with a car that looks cool and has ample grunt on tap (still returning 10 to the hundred). The only non essential loose end I have is that there’s no speedo input to the PCM yet as I haven’t found a suitable unit to suit the turbo 400 that will allow us to keep the stock HQ cable running the cluster.

thanks for the info, were thinking to keep the stock manual box but thinking the firewall will need work, so turbo 400 is another option, were doing under dash a/c as well

I have an article saved on my pc for how to fit a VS speedo guts into a kingswood speedo housing. its actually quite easy and solves the speedo problem. ive done it once before. use modern speedo sensor to pcm, then dash is also electronic.

it involves cutting out the speedo PCB and remotely mounting it with wires extending out of the speedo housing, then placing the speedo drive motor and ODO unit behind the kingswood speedo face and adding the trimmed commodore needle. then replace one particular resistor with a variable resistor to alter the needle position. the idea is you feed it a normal commodore pulses per k to get the odo accurate, then you adjust the needle trim to match the needle pos to the kingswood speedo face.

I've done same as jayme on Torana works a treat .the other option is a trigger wheel on the driveshaft at the diff flange and an abs sensor

Can you post up a copy of the article?