pcmhacking.net

[youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7w_plyay4ms[/youtube]

i just copied your link you posted and shoved in in the youtube code thing. works as always

Ahh, there you go. Need the whole link... Other forums I have used just need the video id.

Thanks

Looks like good fun. Can see you picking up speed with each lap then just hitting the traction limit on the last one but keeping it straight. Good stuff.

The track isn't doing it justice. sounds like he is just coasting along lol

antus wrote:Looks like good fun. Can see you picking up speed with each lap then just hitting the traction limit on the last one but keeping it straight. Good stuff.

vlad01 wrote:The track isn't doing it justice. sounds like he is just coasting along lol

Heaps of fun guys! Sounds a lot louder in the car. The car is so good that in 4th gear you have all the pull out of the corners that you need. I have been aropund that track completely sideways with the engine screaming at 5000 rpm in all the gears, but it's much faster doing it like in the video.

Had the car out for two competition rounds over the weekend. We had a dirt Sprint on Saturday and an Autocross on Sunday. The car performed well and we managed 8th outright and 5th in class in the sprints on Saturday out of 30 cars. Sunday was a little more of a challenge, While in some of the sessions we were able to Rattle the leaders cage, we were not able to put it all together for a a good aggregate time, so unfortunately didn't place too well. The positive is that the car is on the pace, If the driver (me) was a little more consistent we would have had a shot at a podium.

There are some further plans for this car to fine tune it to the application. Next stage is the installation of a 300x600 cooler and a larger throttle body. We also have planned to change the CIG locked 3.08 diff for a full spool 3.45. More weight will come out also with the replacement of the stock boot lid with a fibre glass skin type, and the replacement of all of the glass with poly carbonate.

I would focus on suspension setup, much cornering speed to be gained there. Stock setup sucks.

I wouldn't bother with fiberglass boot and bonnet, they weigh absolutely stuff all as it is.


Sound deadener is probably the best weight reduction as well as the interior and changing the driver seat to light weight bucket, toss the passenger seat all together.

Front seats weigh a ton in the commodore.

if you are allowed, perhaps the door and rear glass as acrylic. glass weighs a lot.


For the suspension. Adjustable tops and add couple of deg extra caster, maybe 1 deg extra neg camber.

springs I find stock to be fine, you can get them reset to a lower ride height by a spring specialist, good on dirt tracks as the stock are softish and better suit rougher surfaces, harder springs are better suited to smooth tar tracks. Good shocks, adjustable ones are good.
Stiffer front and rear sway bars, adjustable are good for dialing in body roll and front/rear bias.

Most importantly and probably the best increase in handling all round comes from use of poly bushes. I recommend super pro brand, they last years reliably!
even using the poly bushes on the sway bars increase the bar's effectiveness quite noticeably.

hope that might help you get to the top of the podium

vlad01 wrote:I would focus on suspension setup, much cornering speed to be gained there. Stock setup sucks.

I wouldn't bother with fiberglass boot and bonnet, they weigh absolutely stuff all as it is.


Sound deadener is probably the best weight reduction as well as the interior and changing the driver seat to light weight bucket, toss the passenger seat all together.

Front seats weigh a ton in the commodore.

if you are allowed, perhaps the door and rear glass as acrylic. glass weighs a lot.


For the suspension. Adjustable tops and add couple of deg extra caster, maybe 1 deg extra neg camber.

springs I find stock to be fine, you can get them reset to a lower ride height by a spring specialist, good on dirt tracks as the stock are softish and better suit rougher surfaces, harder springs are better suited to smooth tar tracks. Good shocks, adjustable ones are good.
Stiffer front and rear sway bars, adjustable are good for dialing in body roll and front/rear bias.

Most importantly and probably the best increase in handling all round comes from use of poly bushes. I recommend super pro brand, they last years reliably!
even using the poly bushes on the sway bars increase the bar's effectiveness quite noticeably.

hope that might help you get to the top of the podium

Thanks Vlad, I have done a lot of the above already. I would like a set of coilovers though, that being said, the gas shocks that I have are quite good, and I am just running the stock sway bars with beefed up end links. What's a good strut top for these? I have the nolathane ones, but I am not very happy with them (Not enough adjustment and not strong enough). I would like something that would give me around 5 deg of negative camber. I have urethane bushes all round, and the car is totally stripped with a fibreglass (pin on) bonnet, I do want to do the same for the bootlid as there is nowhere else that I can take weight away, and I can get a "skin only" bootlid for $350, as for guards and doors I agree there is not enough weight difference to justify it.

K mac stage 2 or 3 tops. they have full independent adjustment unlike noalthane ones and have more range, stronger by shit loads.


gut the doors and fit a fixed acrylic glass. the doors weigh heaps because of the glass and winding mechanisms.

there isn't a whole lot of reduction on the VN-VS series because they are feather weights already. Once you take the engine and gearbox out, depending on how strong you are, you can lift one front corner off the ground by hand.

average corolla these days weighs about the same if not more than a VP v6.

oh yeah, forget spooling the diff, its only going to slow you down on tracks with turns, fit a tru-trac center will put the power down where needed and give better cornering.