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Mince Maker

That mincer is scary looking! But they look close. I loaded the file in to AC and it imported fine, but looking by eye and measuring it looks like your slots are 4 degrees, and the space between the +1 and its notch is 6 degrees. You should should probably widen the slots out to 5 degrees which would reduce the gap to 5 as well (0.5 degrees difference on the inside of each slot each side of the space).

antus wrote:That mincer is scary looking! But they look close. I loaded the file in to AC and it imported fine, but looking by eye and measuring it looks like your slots are 4 degrees, and the space between the +1 and its notch is 6 degrees. You should should probably widen the slots out to 5 degrees which would reduce the gap to 5 as well (0.5 degrees difference on the inside of each slot each side of the space).

Thank you again.
I'll make the changes and get them both cut

CAD for those playing at home. DXF and DWG
changed slot and peak gap to 5deg

Looks good! You have the slot in the same position as I did, which originally looked backwards to me when I got the wheel in hand. But then it turned out I had done it right, phew! I cant check your mounts, but just check the +1 notch will be following its pair when its bolted to the front of the car, and if so, I think you are good to go. I'd recommended 5mm mild steel as that's the size of the ABS sensor and worked well for me.

New wheel installed and I am still having massive RPM Signal spikes.
I changed the ignition module back to the old one and I got zero pulses so the old module was definitely dead.
Swapped back to the new Tridon Module and have RPM again but with huge spikes.
Changed the ABS Sensor over just to check if the old one was damaged and no change.

Tested both the Peak and Slot wheels and still had the same erratic RPM signal.

Has anyone got a known working module or can you recommend someway I can properly fault find this?
I'm fast running out of things to replace or change. My gut is still telling me its another shitty module (Tridon)

I've attached a log of the RPM Signal while cranking with no fuel on. Plugs are in, leads are attached.

ps. the new wheel fits perfect

I am at my mates place who has this car, now. viewtopic.php?f=16&t=998
He is getting this engine going again tonight targeting a 260c coupe.

He has said I can borrow the module for you to test with, but I have to find it. I see the engine and the abs sensor, and the loom. If I can find the module you can borrow it.

Edit: current theory its still on the firewall of the 240 at another location. Mate will check tomorrow.

That would be bloody awesome, let me know if you find it and I'll pick it up from wherever it suits you.

I had a lightbulb moment last night....... Does the output from the module pin(F) need to go directly to the ECU Pin(B3)? I have a horrible feeling that in my quest for making sure I had good earth while re-wiring I have grounded that wire to the motor as well as B3.

It is a signal ground, its a pair with pin E, it should go direct. I dont know if also having the engine in the loop would make a difference or not, but it definitely could be your problem.

Success.

I did have the signal F earthed to the main body, I'm guessing that was why my modules kept dying.

I got a fresh coil pack and module from the wreckers and it is working fine. Timing set perfectly at 10deg, so feel free to use the cad for future projects.

The thermo fans also clicked in at the correct set point.

Now off to the dyno for proper run in and full tune.