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yeah the s1 cranks were different, so was most of the engine.

It was the same sort of change as going from pre ecotec to ecotec. LN3 was a different primitive animal compared to L27.

Charlescrown wrote:Point 4 taken. I now realise it can only ID piston TDC not No1. I didn't know about the different bellhousings but nothing surprises me with manufacturers. I remember the VN had a different block with manual and auto engines. One asks why.

the VK EFI bellhousing I am told is to be stronger to handle the extra torque of this motor with increased power over the carby model

Engineers and their wisdom. I have never seem any transmission snap a belhousing except 1. A 57 Chev with a 350 and he mismatched the uni-joint and when it all let go on the dyno the bellhousing snapped.
Anyway how is the trigger setup working? Should be a much better setup than the std Bosch HEI.

the trigger and ignition module is all working very nicely, i've raced and wringed its neck on the dyno a few times with no issues!

the run at WSID when i did 10.54 was flawless, the motor was just crisp the entire run, no misses or flutters or anything like that!

Charlescrown wrote:Engineers and their wisdom. I have never seem any transmission snap a belhousing except 1. A 57 Chev with a 350 and he mismatched the uni-joint and when it all let go on the dyno the bellhousing snapped.
Anyway how is the trigger setup working? Should be a much better setup than the std Bosch HEI.

broken a VK 202 bellhousing just tightening the bolts up. must of been cocking or something but took stuff all to break a 1/4 of it off.

Also on an EB falcon, I discovered a broken housing. was just broken already but was still the original transmissions so I doubt it had been removed.

There's some great info in this thread. Once I have the basic setup sorted out I will definitely look at going down this path with the crank trigger and multiple coils.

yeah its certainly working well now we've got all the teething problems sorted

Hi all.

I would like to convert my dizzy signal on the 265 to a crank trigger but don't like to thought of paying over $500 for an MSD universal crank trigger kit. Unfortunately I am not as electronically minded as some other here so apologise in advance. ha

I have found the 36 tooth trigger wheels on DIYautotune for around $40.

What ABS sensor do I need?

I understand why you would cut three slots in the harmonic balancer e.g 120 degrees for a 6 cylinder firing 3 times per crank rotation but with the crank trigger wheel with only one big slot how does the ignition/ECU where to fire? I assume the big slot is signifying TDC?

Also could or should I just hook the signal wire from the crank sensor to the white trigger wire to the MSD or should I plug it into the ignition module in place of the dizzy signal wires.

Cheers.

Connect the crank signal to the ignition module so long as it has the right pattern and signal type for that module. Then the coil trigger wire from the module connect to the MSD unit.

If you're going to the trouble of a crank trigger. Lose the dissy and run a module from VL400 and run 6 LS2 coils and no dissy.

Thanks Dylan, yes I will definitely look at the 6 coil option once I have the crank trigger running ok.