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these arrived in the mail. I bought the whole set just so I could get the front mud flaps which are unobtainium, not that the rear ones aren't but certainty are much harder to find than the rear.

Would there be any merrit in fitting something like this to control engine temp?
Surely it could be controlled with a flex output?...

For those playing at home, that is an electric thermostat... (from a 2008 VW Golf Diesel)

No, I would gladly put Holden parts in a VW, have done before, certainly not the other way around lol.

This is a classic case of not following the KISS principal, courtesy of vw.

that thermostat probably probably doesn't meet epa regs

imagine if the pwm board failed or a wire broke...... engine dead.

The above unit in the picture is faulty, when fitted to the vehicle would send it into limp mode.

come to think if it, it would probably have been designed to default to open when unplugged or not powered.... in which case if it fails you just get a cold engine?

just went and pulled it from the bin and yes, it seems to be 'normally open' type thermostat (can't test this one as its open circuit)

My stuff arived finally.

Anyways I have been looking for a VR alternator for ages, seems imposible to find one in Melboune.

So a wrecker out of few that I tried half a dozen times over 2 months finally had one.

The stator was pretty sad and I tried a while ago to get spares for them through ashdown ingrams with no luck, can buy the VN/VP style alternators brand new but they suck.


Had a thought come across to putting VS-VY alternator guts in the VR case but looking at the space on the engine I quickly dismissed that idea and looked at trying to mod early and readily available new guts into the VR case but it was a no go, too many mods to make it work. Chalk and cheese they are.

So talking to Big G he said use ecotec alternator guts and he said hes done a few that way. So I revisited that idea since I have a virtually mint VY one.


So here it is as a mock up to see how much clearance with VN/VR reg, though I will need to use the ecotec reg.
You can see it has a cutout for the larger plug.
VR left, VY right.

Note that the stator is longer as well as the rotor. The cases are same length dimensions and virtually identical in construction.

The pulleys are offset differently so you need to use the VR pulley. Also note the regulator is lower profile compared to the VR so even though the alternator ends up longer the overall length is basically the same so fuel rail clearance is no longer and issue.

Internal layout of the case, VR left, VY right. almost identical.
Just for comparison. I have a virtually new VP alternator on the left. It came off one of the cars I stripped. its really different and doesn't fit without issues like the rectifier heat sink jamming and shorting against the case.
So as for the cutout, I made one for the VR rear case and got it all blasted among other stuff.
Now painted in RB, reg fits a treat and the plug clips in with no probs.
So will be finishing that when I come back in 2 weeks from Perth.

In other news, I got some stuffs.

new genuine GM ecotec cover. Its a new part number that came out recently and its quite nice. Very similar to what it replaced. I see its still much the same casting but machining looks much more refined.
Seimens knock sensors, 22 USD each I got 2.
From holden I picked up some oil adapter gaskets, a dip stick, fuel pump strainers (old style, less prone to blockage) and exhaust locking plates.
I also painted the water pump, just need to paint the hub so it doesn't rust. Put it on the engine loosely for the paint to cure overnight.

Also checked knock sensor clearance with extractors, driver side is no go with both locations I had drilled and tapped, not biggy, will just use the the rear of the head. Passenger side is all good.
Had a minor issue though with the support bracket here, Just fits but is up against the exhaust, like exactly slides in there but touching. Have a some solutions for this which I will tackle next year. Probably be a good idea I buy the pacemakers and check again as its likely to be different in the clearance, these are my old ones which I letting my nephew have for his car.
Oh and a warning about those knock sensors, when tightening the bolt though them, they built up quite a voltage like a capacitor and gives you a little shock, sparks good when you stick something metal to discharge them. Same thing happens when you release the bolt.

got a bit done yesterday. Last of any major work for the year.

finished painting the pump, got the timing cover on and fitted a new bearing to the alternator front case.


gasket lightly as possible coated with aviation sealant, that tar like non drying stuff. Just to give it a tack and make it bond to both surfaces. Weep proof!
Cover on and I also installed the seal, my special tool lol
I had to go into town and get some petroleum jelly to pack the pump.

Shield on.

Finished up with the oil pressure reg kit from ZZP and oil filter adapter, also installed the balancer. Specs in the book are 270-325 Nm. I went for 290-300 and that was 90% my body weight on the torque wrench, I literally just clicked it off when my feet came off the ground
Looks nice in there