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Way late, however step drills are your friend when drilling thin materials.

-Enjoy

Next problem. On Petrol it's hard to start, turns over and coughs and dies, does this a few times and then starts and runs perfect. I suspect the fuel pump isn't priming so I'm not getting fuel pressure until it's wound over a few times and the oil pressure comes up turning on the fuel pump.

Gampy wrote:Way late, however step drills are your friend when drilling thin materials.

-Enjoy

Yes they are and I recently got some and made light work of the 2nd plate I made

Charlescrown wrote:I really can't understand why anyone would use LPG these days. Anyway good to see you fixed an issue and got it running. Interested whith the push rod plates. What are they for I would think the lifter would be ables to accomodate.

Because it's a lot cheaper than petrol? Honestly, the long term plan is to get rid of the LPG but it's something I've not played with before so might as well try it and see for a bit.

I'm fairly sure the lifters weren't noisy when I drove it home, they are noisy now and the only thing that has changed is the lifter pre-load. With the shim plates the noise from the lifters has changed but not gone away. I'll probably try some on the other side. I'm guessing 340,000km worth of bedding in might have something to do with it. Noise definitely goes away with a few revs (and more oil pressure). Ultimately I'll probably throw in a new set or another set. I have a set on the shelf that are used but weren't noisy and have much less mileage on em. Might strip and clean them and see.

I'd recommend the LS lifters part number 17122490 with 2.09mm preload. The stock v6 lifters commonly tick or get stuck and don't take up the play or as they get high ks bleed down all the time.

Swapped out the fuel pump relay, cranked it over and it fired straight up

vlad01 wrote:I'd recommend the LS lifters part number 17122490 with 2.09mm preload. The stock v6 lifters commonly tick or get stuck and don't take up the play or as they get high ks bleed down all the time.

I'll see what happens. It's not a major issue ATM, just annoying.

Yeah, not critical but does leave a small amount of performance on the table due to reduced lift and duration from the play and/or bleed down.

LOL, the LPG mixer is killing all the performance.

My old vacationer engine had really bad bleed down by the end and rattled badly above idle, it was down a fair bit on power at the end. The autopsy showed the engine to be really healthy otherwise apart from the lifter's plungers being able to be pressed in by hand despite full of oil. A hand full of them were stuck too and came free once I hit them down with a hammer.

I am considering replacing them and the springs in my new VP with 125k as I noticed lifter tick after shutting down and restarting only after 30min, so they are already bleeding down. My VR and VP S don't do this even with months of no running, my VP S had no lifter tick at all after 6 years of no starts. Good healthy lifters should not tick or rattle.

Been a long time between posts, with all that covid has thrown us over the last few months the VT was pushed down the back into hibernation for a while but things are finally settling down, still haven't had covid although my boss tried his best to give it to me. I did catch some other respitory virus that knocked me about for about a week but 4 negative tests suggests no covid.

First job is to finish stripping the old VN so it can get sold/towed/scrapped (what ever works out the most profitable) but before that can happen I need to harvest a few parts. Some to be sold, other to go into the VT.

I started up front and removed the high ratio LS rocker conversion and nice cast alloy rocker covers. And removed a few other bits and bobs like the large TB, remote oil filter kit etc.
Jumped into the cabin and removed a few items there and then it was onto the main parts required for the VT. First job was to jack the old girl up so I could get access. Normally this would be easy but the old girl is very suspect structurally and my driveway concrete is crap so the jack doesn't roll to well but we got there in the end. Time to get the diff and gears out.
Got the diff cover off and drained the oil. Oil still looked good, green and not contaminated except a little at the very bottom of the housing.
Pulled the axles and dropped out the center.
I also noticed the diff housing has been painted on the inside, never seen this before? I haven't cleaned anything, just drained the oil and popped out the center.

Got out my little LSD testing rig and tested the unit. Averaged between 160-180Nm to cause the LSD to slip. Not bad considering it has been abused in my years of driving.

By this time it was dark and the mosquitos were telling me it was time to call it a day.

Plan tomorrow is to get the pinion out and then the full T5 driveline and a few other goodies and then we can arrange to get rid of the VN and put the VT back on the driveway for further mods and daily driving duties. I'll put the diff back together sans center and make it a roller again.

The price of gas has gone ape shit here so I'm looking forward to using LPG and 19ron fuel.

Has anyone does a T5 conversion into a VT?

I only really see 2 main issues, the clutch pedal seeing as the T5 uses a cable clutch and the speed sensor.

Can a VN style manual pedal box be adapted for use in the VT?

Didn't get much done today, Pulled out the driveshaft (forgot to get my spare slip yoke) and now have a large patch of transmission fluid under the car. There was also a lot of oil between the diff and driveshaft flanges. The Pinion nut didn't seem that tight and the flange pulled off the pinion splines by hand (which were saturated with oil).

Re-assembled the rear end with the new bluetooth center. Have listed the car as a wrecker on Trademe as well as some various parts. Hopefully it'll be one soon and then I'll have room on the driveway for the VT.