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The trip meter that the current ECU feeds will still work, and actually thinking about it its possible it wont need any adjusting in the bin.

i guess we will find out, i cant see why it wouldnt. but even if it doesnt im not overly fussed. but cheers for your input

ethan9 wrote:so i have an old vp computer sitting in my room the auto one from my car. could i send you that one and you map that to the manual l67 tune or does it have to be an l67 computer ?

unfortunately not, totally different chip in VS onwards.

thats cool i can get a hold of a vs memcal easy enough. does it have to be L67 or can it be just normal vs ? (trying to save a bit of money as the l67 would be more than a normal auto vs memcal... )

Jayme wrote:sorry but I have to disagree here..... just use the stock L67 harness and tick VATS and Manual trans in the tune, reburn and drive. will avoid having to do a huge complicated remap for map based tune if you go 2 bar on the VP computer.

yes, if its bolt ons or even W2A but with an A2A you will need a custom remap maf or mafless.

With A2A if you leave the maf in the stock position you will likely have issues with it stalling at a quick stop where the rpms come down quickly as the maf sees a big rush of air which fills all the pipes but doesnt actually go into the motor. If you put the maf on the inlet to the motor after the intercooler you will see this less to a degree but now the maf is subjected to oil etc. which will cause it to read inconsistantly. A2A will run great on maf or mafless BUT it needs to be tuned. stock tune should be 'ok' on 10 psi pulley (~3.2" pulley) and W2A, best practise would be to at least log to make sure there is no kr registering.

I can see where you are going with it... but im not sure how it applies to this sutuation? on an L67 the throttle plate is before the charger, so when you snap the throttle shut, the charger isnt pulling any air over the maf coz the throttle plate is stopping it. where does the bug rush of air over the maf come from?
if anyhitng it will lean out a tad as all the air in the pipe is consumed by the motor while the maf is reading next to nothing.

in not saying that you are wrong and it doesnt happen, coz I have heard it does, just that I dont understand why it happens, or what they actually change in the tune to fix it.

i might have the stock vs. relocated maf scenario ass about, its been awhile since ive tuned a maf A2A. the problem basically comes from the large plenum area. I'll have to find my old logs to refresh my mind on exactly what the symptom is, probably that the maf counts the air twice back and forward or that it sees a large increase that doesnt reflect in actual air into the manifold....

I only query because i might be tuning an a2a setup if this stupid looking w2a cooler doesnt work out. be interesting to know if it can be made drivable or if we are looking at having to go mafless.

the W2A isnt going to cool as good as an A2A. i dont think you're going to get much cooling at all if its one of those 'stealth' ones... You certainly dont 'have' to go mafless to make it work, its easier with mafless tho.

OK hi firstly iv got a l67 manual a2a running a 20psi pully and thats with a 2bar map taped in to the LIM.
yes it runs very well no its running any of your options thats why im hear cause i want to be able to look at it my self and play with it
its running a kalmaker base tune not cheap the computer is out of a sIII ute that i got the getrag box from and the harness is out of the same ute just choped and modded to fit my needs and i repined the ecu to read map cause we all know that if you want a real tune its got to be map
so wat im asking is what will i need to do to get rid of the kalmaker or at least copy the tune so iv got something to work off of. also im saying a2a is the way to go we have a lot of cars over hear running it with proven results.