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Yeah, 6 hoses to a manifold and then from there to the an IAC valve body, then inlet to one of the air cleaners. Should work ok. The IAC is a pintle valve controlled by a stepper motor.

You will need to get something like this to make the IAC work.
https://www.tiperformance.com.au/produc ... ntrol-kit/

But you could always cut up a VN-VR throttle body for the IAC part and tap some threads and screw in a pair of barbs on the cheap. Only won't look as nice but will work.

This one might be better. It takes the VN-VR type IAC so that way the setting for the IAC will be matched to the hardware in regards to the pintle size and shape verses what the software expects. The other one above looks like an LS one which has a different pintle.

https://www.efihardware.com/products/79 ... otor-block

Thanks Vlad, I like the EFI solution. Great suggestions.

The advantage of an IAC in your case will be idle speed control during cold start and warm up. Stall saver is also a nice benefit.

vlad01 wrote:The advantage of an IAC in your case will be idle speed control during cold start and warm up. Stall saver is also a nice benefit.

Thanks

There are a few things you need to change if your not running a IAC. I'll dig out my notes and post them.

Trying to make a decision as to which way to go with the ignition. Dissy or DIS?

I hope I am on the right track.

Option 1 VK dissy modified with the BIM148 ignition module as per Holden202T's description and LS coil or something similar with a bit of grunt.

Option 2 Any good condition dizzy (just to distribute the spark) with the internals removed, a BIM148 module fed from a three tooth crank wheel on the center section of the harmonic balancer and a Commodore ABS Brake sensor (the 3 tooth wheel is really replicating the reluctor in a dizzy as the crank does two revs to the to the dizzy's one). This would eliminate the possibility spikes from timing gear backlash etc.

Option 3 D1928A, D1998A, or LX346 DIS module with 3 Commodore coils, 6-1 crank wheel on the center section of the harmonic balancer with a Commodore ABS Brake sensor.

The engine will be running around 45mm ITB's, 10.5:1 comp, Yella Terra Alloy 12 port head with rollers, most likely an XU1 XH cam (or similar) and will be capable of revs when needed.

Are each of the 3 options correct?

Which way would you guys go for this particular engine setup?

LJ Torana,(drag car) I am using the Holden dizzy, BIM148 module & a Crane coil & ign unit which works, this will convert to a 36-1 wheel, abs sensor & a Programable Delco Ignition module when I finish it, same as Holden202T.
HJ ute,(cruise car) has Holden dizzy BIM148 module & Bosch HEI coil, when I had it fitted in another car a few years ago, it made 130hp at the treads with a 218° cam.
To use the LS coil, I think that a coil driver is also required in the system.

v6bucket wrote:LJ Torana,(drag car) I am using the Holden dizzy, BIM148 module & a Crane coil & ign unit which works, this will convert to a 36-1 wheel, abs sensor & a Programable Delco Ignition module when I finish it, same as Holden202T.
HJ ute,(cruise car) has Holden dizzy BIM148 module & Bosch HEI coil, when I had it fitted in another car a few years ago, it made 130hp at the treads with a 218° cam.
To use the LS coil, I think that a coil driver is also required in the system.

OK will have to rethink the coil side of things.
Do you think there would be much benefit by going wasted spark and commodore coils?

You could probably mount V6 interrupter rings on the balancer and sensor and make it work with V6 coils. If done right it will be much better than a dizzy.

I recall someone here did exactly that with an RB engine.