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Re: 4L60E

Posted: Tue Jul 14, 2020 10:27 pm
by immortality
I don't think LS and Holden V8 4L60e's are cross compatible either. I could be wrong but IIRC different input shaft length and different converter.

Re: 4L60E

Posted: Tue Jul 14, 2020 10:40 pm
by vlad01
Personally I would just rebuild the VR one and be done with it. My mate tried a similar thing in his VY, that is to use one from another model and there were more differences that he didn't know about and ended up giving up and rebuilding the one he had than trying to adapt the VT one he got.

Re: 4L60E

Posted: Tue Jul 14, 2020 10:53 pm
by vs ss
alffie wrote:Ah this is the V6 4L60E, Iam runinning the V8 4L60E there is a much differnt bellhousing so the main difference for me is the 02 has the LS rh starter and my 396 has the LH starter so iam thinking i go with the 98 4L60
As mentioned in my first post the input is different, so will need to do a custom built convertor or change the input shaft. Changing the input shaft would be a better choice as it just makes it a more convenience thing. Seeing though you have vs3 /vt1 trans already and you want to go that route, just use that. Bellhousing is right and so is the input( providing it’s not a v6 unit)

Re: 4L60E

Posted: Wed Jul 15, 2020 9:41 pm
by alffie
vlad01 wrote:Personally I would just rebuild the VR one and be done with it. My mate tried a similar thing in his VY, that is to use one from another model and there were more differences that he didn't know about and ended up giving up and rebuilding the one he had than trying to adapt the VT one he got.
Is there any advantage to running the PWM pump of the later ones? or it makes no difference to the ecu tune? The later models dont make much advantage?

Re: 4L60E

Posted: Wed Jul 15, 2020 10:47 pm
by vs ss
The pwm is there to alter the apply pressure of the lockup converter. You can’t fit a pwm pump to the early non pwm transmission. There is not enough difference internally to say definitely use this one or that one. Any slight internal changes would or should get changed when its built for the task ahead. The early ones had aluminum clutch apply pistons and the later ones had moulded rubber/steel pistons. These are a good upgrade cause under high shift pressures I have seen these crack. If you are going to use it without touching inside it will have a pretty average life span with a good 396 so which one you use won’t really matter. If someone is going to build a “high performance” one just make sure you get more than the wide band,boost valve and extra 3-4 clutches. This is how so many get built and it’s not worth much on its own. There are a few spots inside that need machining and bushing to help stop the flex that appears to happen in and around the input drum and not to forget a good reaction shell.
But hey everyone has their way of doing things so it’s up to them.

Re: 4L60E

Posted: Wed Jul 15, 2020 11:02 pm
by vs ss
Sorry got away from the question!
The pwm is controlled by the pcm hence the extra wire and this affects the apply pressure for the tcc. So pretty much it was put there to make the tcc apply smoother for oem and also helped spline wear. After you have the engine done the trans will probably end up with a shift kit and shift pressures turned up in the tune so the rate of smoothness that the tcc is applied is probably irrelevant.

Re: 4L60E

Posted: Sun Jul 19, 2020 8:49 pm
by alffie
vs ss wrote:The pwm is there to alter the apply pressure of the lockup converter. You can’t fit a pwm pump to the early non pwm transmission. There is not enough difference internally to say definitely use this one or that one. Any slight internal changes would or should get changed when its built for the task ahead. The early ones had aluminum clutch apply pistons and the later ones had moulded rubber/steel pistons. These are a good upgrade cause under high shift pressures I have seen these crack. If you are going to use it without touching inside it will have a pretty average life span with a good 396 so which one you use won’t really matter. If someone is going to build a “high performance” one just make sure you get more than the wide band,boost valve and extra 3-4 clutches. This is how so many get built and it’s not worth much on its own. There are a few spots inside that need machining and bushing to help stop the flex that appears to happen in and around the input drum and not to forget a good reaction shell.
But hey everyone has their way of doing things so it’s up to them.
What upgrades do you recomend? The full sonnax level 3 kit? and the borg warner clutches?