pcmhacking.net

car is mostly complete just missing fuel lines, wiring and some finishing touch's... fuel pump, wideband, intercooler, filter, flanges and 3bar map sensor turned up this week, converted to 100amp alternator and 4rib belts, and gained a couple of inchs extra clearance for piping, couldn't find a water pipe to suit, so a mate is hacking and modding one we brought (have a feeling i'm gonna be building a new one from scratch)

NVRAM & usb board arrived, have assembled and seem to be connecting to the computer sweet...

hoping to try and start it this weekend, have loom spread across my floor atm (i can't believe how much bigger it is than the v6 vn loom i have here)


can someone please tell me what the "A/B switch" means? its pin B9 on the 12p software, and i can't seem to figure out what it stands for

the plan is to clock about 50-100k's while n/a and try to learn the software/tuning side of it, then will finish the turbo manifolds and slam them on with the bigger injectors and tune it... hoping to have it usable for november 20th (powercruise taupo NZ) crazy late rush, and still have to get my car ready also

Th A/B switch is so you can switch between maps in the program here are a few able and scalar that refer to Map A or Map B with the input not connect Map A is selected tied to Gnd is map B. Mainly to do with spark tables so you can have eg of one table for 98 octane fuel and another for 91.

thanks! i'll add a earthable switch for future use, i thought map selected was only done through a jumper on the nvram board?

It has both if using 12P, the NVRAM jumper changes banks so can have totally different code bases on it if you want. The jumper is a hardware address line switch while the pin B9 switch is software. If your just wanting hi/lo octane or meth/petrol tunes then pin B9 to switch the a/b variables is the go.

cool, i think i get it

heres a pic of most of what i removed from loom, i forgot how much fun factory looms are

Weight savings And good work on the assembly of the boards, the USB one can be fiddly

so we ran into afew delays (like overindulging at a halloween party in the weekend ) but finally got it full of fliuds, wiring all laid in there and fuel lines finished, but unfortunately it doesn't go, no spark or fuel...
the blue light is on on the nvram, jumper is set to 8cyc with no eprom attached.
i'm guessing it may be something to do with the dissy signal settings in the software?

EDIT :something else has got me thinking and thats the vr loom diagram i've been using has a power feed to the coil, but my coil only plugs into the dissy with 2pin plug and dissy-to-comp has the 4 pin, so it can't possably pull enough current through that, there is a secong plug on the coil that looks like its never been used, so i must need to hook this to a power supply and the other wire is prob a tacho signal, i can't find this anywhere in the old loom so unsure... but it prob feeds 12v to coil and pick-up


so next i thought it time to plug up the laptop and see what the data said when cranking, but i couldn't get tunerpro to connect, i can plug in usb comms card and computer finds it, then installs the drivers from the site, assigns com7, open tunerpro and set to ose12p and comm7.
back to main screen and initialize hardware, and it searches and the tx & rx data both flash, but tunerpro still says hardware not found so nothing happens, have i missed something?
something else i noticed is odd, the 5v usb light isn't on, but i checked it with a multimeter and there is 5v on it, maybe its just a faulty light?

i've got it all laid out on the floor here hooked up to 12v, and i'll get a spare dissy and spin that to try and get it sparking on the floor, when i get it to connect to the computer

power to the injectors and coil on vn vp etc v8 comes from relays switched via the ignition switch itself and go in the loom via the plugs that go by the battery

and are you using camira style ignition module if so you will need to set the spark reference angle in the tune its in the top window of tunerpro set it to 10 degrees

keto wrote:so we ran into afew delays (like overindulging at a halloween party in the weekend ) but finally got it full of fliuds, wiring all laid in there and fuel lines finished, but unfortunately it doesn't go, no spark or fuel...
the blue light is on on the nvram, jumper is set to 8cyc with no eprom attached.
i'm guessing it may be something to do with the dissy signal settings in the software?

EDIT :something else has got me thinking and thats the vr loom diagram i've been using has a power feed to the coil, but my coil only plugs into the dissy with 2pin plug and dissy-to-comp has the 4 pin, so it can't possably pull enough current through that, there is a secong plug on the coil that looks like its never been used, so i must need to hook this to a power supply and the other wire is prob a tacho signal, i can't find this anywhere in the old loom so unsure... but it prob feeds 12v to coil and pick-up

Def need a 12v igntion feed, will get spark without the ECU attached so regardless of how that is set will see spark when wired correctly.

keto wrote:so next i thought it time to plug up the laptop and see what the data said when cranking, but i couldn't get tunerpro to connect, i can plug in usb comms card and computer finds it, then installs the drivers from the site, assigns com7, open tunerpro and set to ose12p and comm7.
back to main screen and initialize hardware, and it searches and the tx & rx data both flash, but tunerpro still says hardware not found so nothing happens, have i missed something?
something else i noticed is odd, the 5v usb light isn't on, but i checked it with a multimeter and there is 5v on it, maybe its just a faulty light?

i've got it all laid out on the floor here hooked up to 12v, and i'll get a spare dissy and spin that to try and get it sparking on the floor, when i get it to connect to the computer

If you download the plugin here .. https://pcmhacking.net/forums/view ... ?f=3&t=590

Follow the instructions and assign comm port as you have done and set 'cable echo'. Should be good to go

Check your soldering for the 5v LED and the polarity of the LED (the green dot should face the angled overlay). The resistor on the underside of the board labelled R1 is for the power LED, it should be a 4700 (470 ohms). But if its finding the board and assigning a comm port its working ok.