antus wrote:I dont think the xpro is the problem here. When you get a new pcm, dont jump straight to the clone option, do a few test writes first and post the debug log up. That'll tell is if there is anything wrong with the communications in the car/computer/interface before risking the pcm. Then I agree with gampy, do your first write on the bench as a test calibration write only and not a whole clone. The P04s are easier to brick than the later designed ones. Instead read the whole pcm, load the file in universal patcher and change one thing, save as to a new file, then do a calibration test write of that on the bench. Only if thats ok, then do a real calibration write on the bench. If that works, then you can start testing clones on the bench. Save the debug logs as you go incase something happens so we can go back to see where your issue first started. If everything is working on the bench, and you are prepared to take the risk then move to the car. But I agree with MudDuck here viewtopic.php?f=4&t=8008&start=170#p124597 the voltage you are seeing in the car is too low for a reliable write. You may be poor electrical connections, or a low battery. You really want to see at least 12.4v at the pcm before trying to write.
Will do.
Battery voltage started high but after all the steps I attempted and the dome light on the whole time it dwindled down to that by the end.
Instead of sourcing parts and/or waiting for ebay parts I ordered a bench harness off amazon. I saw they have had power supply complaints on it so I'll double check that and use some alligator clips to a fully charged car battery if needed.
They don't have an ignition switch, which is required to do VIN changes and I think security links, but a spst (or spdt) switch should be easy to splice in for ignition.
You also need to ensure pin 60 is used for ground.
-Enjoy.
Intelligence is in the details!
It is easier not to learn bad habits, then it is to break them!
If I was here to win a popularity contest, their would be no point, so I wouldn't be here!
Gampy wrote:They don't have an ignition switch, which is required to do VIN changes and I think security links, but a spst (or spdt) switch should be easy to splice in for ignition.
You also need to ensure pin 60 is used for ground.
-Enjoy.
Grounding to battery negative is sufficient correct? I don’t want to assume and brick another pcm.
ProfessWRX wrote:Battery voltage started high but after all the steps I attempted and the dome light on the whole time it dwindled down to that by the end.
This might have been your problem, dropping voltage would have been enough to erase and program until it dropped low enough that it could no longer program, which would have failed the write. Without the logs to see, this sounds like it would have been the problem. Voltages don't usually drop from 12.5v+ to 11.8 over a single flash.
ProfessWRX wrote:Battery voltage started high but after all the steps I attempted and the dome light on the whole time it dwindled down to that by the end.
This might have been your problem, dropping voltage would have been enough to erase and program until it dropped low enough that it could no longer program, which would have failed the write. Without the logs to see, this sounds like it would have been the problem. Voltages don't usually drop from 12.5v+ to 11.8 over a single flash.
It’s definitely possible. I only paid real attention at the beginning and I know I did a vin write, I think I did a full read and a fake write before I attempted the bigger writhing. It’s possible I stopped paying attention by that point. But I know it’s important so I think it was still in the 12s but I’ve never had a low battery when tuning the several cars I’ve done. It’s never been experimental software so I always just wrote quickly and was done. Bench harness writing will stop that and when I switch to car writing it should be quicker writes anyway.
Hard to tell since I didn’t copy the logs prior to attempting fixes.
ProfessWRX wrote:It’s definitely possible. I only paid real attention at the beginning and I know I did a vin write, I think I did a full read and a fake write before I attempted the bigger writhing. It’s possible I stopped paying attention by that point. But I know it’s important so I think it was still in the 12s but I’ve never had a low battery when tuning the several cars I’ve done. It’s never been experimental software so I always just wrote quickly and was done. Bench harness writing will stop that and when I switch to car writing it should be quicker writes anyway.
Hard to tell since I didn’t copy the logs prior to attempting fixes.
Under Options, Settings there are some log settings you might want to take a look at if you haven't already.
-Enjoy
Intelligence is in the details!
It is easier not to learn bad habits, then it is to break them!
If I was here to win a popularity contest, their would be no point, so I wouldn't be here!
Alright, got the new PCM, the bench harness and the power supply is only 12.12V so I've got my spare battery charging while I cut up this harness to ground the pin and wire in the switch. Should be attempting some reads here in a bit.
