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Normally want it set as rearward as the strut tops allow

That's what I am going to do now that I know I won't run into having too much positive camber, in fact should end up more negative compared to factory even at max caster.

I was doubtful before as I was comparing to my VP S but last night realized it also had adjustable ones, those nolathane ones and that was set to a very negative setting, -2º on the front wheels. So I had no idea where the K-mac ones were sitting in reference to stock, it was way positive compared to the VP S, 10mm futher out in fact.

Good thing I had pics of the old engine bay, now I see stock is miles outward and that didn't seem to have positive caster looking by eye on the wheels, looked slightly negative I recall. So win win!

How about these adjustable castor arms/z bars? $50each

www.ijspeed.com

i'll just leave me here....

Cheers!

I agree, that veyron is a rich spoiled kid's toy volkwagen, a fast one at that, but still a vw I used to be into them when I was a kid but I grew up though and got a Holden




Anyways, some progress.

Couldn't get any new fans. Bunch of sellers listed them in stock and with heaps available. All bs, NLA

So I tidied one up from 2 shit ones. Luck I had the terminals too as there were very sad!

I also replaced the PVC sleeving with heat shrink as it all fell apart.


Engine bay is now practically done. Only battery to install and some cable ties to trim. Oh and need some pinch welt to suit the CAI box for the intake pipe to make it tighter and not rattle on the plastic.

So that's how this goes. I had to get new fasteners as the included ones in the kit was all wrong, only the nylocs were correct.

All sorted now, also can see the rubber pad I made to make the bracket conform a lot better to the arm.






Got the rotors and calipers sorted. Still need to fit the hoses though.




I really like this shot.
I also measured the camber angles properly since I have a surface to measure from, just a fraction over +1º. I used the phone app to zero out on the chassis and took the rotor face measurement, both exactly a tad over 1º, so I know for sure I have plenty to work with when the car sits on some wheels and goes into a negative value.

Lookin good, radiator is a nice bit of kit

yeah it is nice, a side bonus of a necessity since aftermarket ones are smaller than the original. If you need custom, you might as well go all out in capability and quality.

What's the parameters I should be adjusting for a larger throttle body apart from the AE table? I recall the AE table only increased AE somewhat and not a large amount even with high values.

Just started making a basic tune to do the first run in. Filling in injector data, cranking fuel, forcing open loop, WB settings, disabling knock and RDSC among other stuff.

Hey Vlad,

what's with the UV light under the car???