Twin Cam GT Bellett

[VL400]

As deep as you can get the notches (double like jayme said would be good), the more metal missing the better

Is the crank trigger wiring your using a shielded cable with the shield only earthed at one end? Its not running past/near any of the leads, injectors or spark plugs is it?

[antus]

sensor lead is the highest grade jaycar balanced microphone cable - twin core for the sensor and grounded on the outside. battery volt is probably crap because its the original 1965 bellett regulator and its very crude.

[65bellett]

Cheers for the heads up on the altenator being a bit sus. I have a fairly long "To Do" list on this car and the altenator was definitely on there as the mount has a lot of flex in it and the bearings are rattling there heads off. I have another altenator in the shed so I might have to get back on the welder and start making some new mounts.

I will definitely double the depths of the notches and I have a few ideas about lowering the sensor a smidge, I'm not real keen to file out the holes as I took ages to make sure I have a good fit and I want to make sure there is no chance of the bracket moving.

[vs ss]

Hi i had the same issue with a clean sensor signal when i done a conversion a few years back.
The setup was similar with a abs sensor and slots cut in the front pulley but i ended up making a reluctor wheel to bolt to the pulley as one of the issues that came up was the slot was not wide enough (front to back) and with a bit of crank end play made matters worse.
So with a wheel made a bit wider than the tip of the sensor(about 10mm)bingo all good the sensor was not so sensetive to air gap and vibration as it was with the thin orig pulley.
Thats all i have done in this area so i thought i would say my bit anyway.

[65bellett]

VNSS I think you may be onto some thing. On Sunday I am picking up another bottom pulley and I may look at placing a trigger wheel behind it and then get it rebalanced so that it has more of an area pick up the signal (that made sense in my head).

I have not much of a chance to play with the car due to work this week but I have 3 days off next week and a car show to get to on Sunday the 12th so fingers crossed.

[65bellett]

Hi guys I have made a few more changes to the set up on the GT. I have made an alloy bracket for the coil packs and module to be mounted to. I spoke to the guy at Jaycar and showed him the bracket and module I was trying to keep cool and he sold me the correct heat sink paste for the job and he said it should work fine.

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I have also made a change to the bracket that was holding the ABS sensor. I wanted to really see if I could get some flex out of the bracket the way it was so I got my big shifter out grabbed hold of the tab that the sensor is mounted to and gave it a twist. I attached another bracing piece and then did the same test and that thing is not going any where.

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I have also re notched the bottom pulley so that they are as deep as I can possibly get them.

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I have had a good look at making the notches a bit thicker but that is going to take a fair bit of machining so I plan on leaving that as a bit of a last resort.

The car is now driving heaps better. In fact for the first minute or two I really can't fault it but it seems the further I drive the fluffier it gets and I am getting a couple of error codes so Istill have a little more work to get to.

Here is the log, will be great to hear what you guys think

[antus]

You still have the bypass error and the TPS error.

I reckon your ignition module is likely broken... I'll post you my spare to test.

As for the TPS its unclear if its broken, or if we didnt put enough tollerance for the lower voltages that nissan tps provides in the tune. Try lowing the voltage in "TPS - TPS Full travel - Worst case minimum voltage" another 0.2 or 0.5 volts and see if that helps. If it doesnt, try replacing the TPS.

[65bellett]

Cheers Antus I can't wait to get my hands on the new ignition module and finally take this car for a real drive

While I am waiting I have started fabricating a new fuel rail as the old one was pretty ordinary

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While I was at Pinch a Part the other week they had injectors on sale for $5.00 a piece so I grabbed 4 from a JE camira and I also took the fuel rail with them. It is a bit of a pain but the injector spacing from the Camira rail was only about 5mm out at each injector, so close yet so far. I still like the little clips the Camira rail uses to hold on to the injectors though so I have decided to cut it up and use all the good bits on my new rail.

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I was quite lucky as all the little injector cups/holders had a little dimple on the inside of the Camira rail so I was able to drill a little matching hole in the piece of rhs. At the moment you can see that I have all the rough pieces held together with cable ties, tomorrow I plan to go and raid my Dads shed and clean every thing up and then Mig it all together. I have never had to weld any thing to a fuel tight seal, is this going to be a problem????? My other question is the injectors are held into the manifold with studs and flanges and the original fuel rail was not clamped any where. As my new fuel rail is going to be pretty weighty am I going to have to have it mounted some where or will it be fine.

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[65bellett]

Well I have been very slack with the updating of this thread but here is the latest with the little fire breathing GT!!

After all the trials of trying to get a clean signal to the DFI module and then getting a clean signal and having it break up after a few minutes I finally got hold of a new DFI and every thing started coming together (Cheers for the life line Antus!!!). For the last couple of weeks I have been taking the GT on the 80km round trip to and from work and it has been running really well. I still have a few issues as I am getting a TPS stuck error and the idle is very erratic but I have picked up an N13 throttle body from Pick a Part and over the next couple of weeks I will be adapting it to fit my intake.

As far as before and after is concerned even with the current issues the car is running 100 times better than it was before the Delco conversion. Below is a fairly long log and the current BIN