pcmhacking.net

yeah i know the balancer is not the best option and i want to work on a wheel infront bolted to the inner section of the balancer eventually, this is more to get a working setup.

i will be running it at gunnedah drags today to see how it goes but i am having some issues with it flooding the car when cranking and just wont start (methanol is good like that hahahah), but if i warm up the motor on the dizzy trigger then switch it over it starts okish and runs fine.

So how did the crank trigger go at Gunnedah compared to the dizzy setup?

i actually got a few spikes in the RPM trace mainly in the top end of the run so i went back to the dizzy pickup for the rest of the weekend!

not exactly sure what the issue is weather its a slot size issue or the bracket moving or what but something needs to be done before i try it again thats for sure!

Hey this may be a silly question bit what is the formulae for working out the width of the "notches"

I can't answer that Chubs but I believe earlier in this thread there was something about it just needing to be every 120 degrees so 3 equal cut outs, but this method still needs further attention not sure if you've seen this other topic but goes into it further...

https://pcmhacking.net/forums/view ... 6&start=84

i've been told about 4mm wide and deep .... but i guess it also depends on the diamater of the wheel the slots going into!

My thoughts exactly because from memory the timing wheel on a commy is like in to 6ths with every second one missing thus 3 even length evenly spaced cut outs, just wondering why it wouldn't be impperative they were the same?

the commdore v6 works differently to other pickups, with the two chopper wheels like it is, it can sync with where the engine is quicker than other types

Generally you want the tooth/slot width about the same as the sensor tip - this is not the physical sensor packaging but the actual sensing tip. The wider the tooth is the longer the reluctor pulse is, the voltage peaks are the leading and trailing edges of the tooth. The sensing circuits normally look for a zero voltage crossing to trigger from, so with a wider tooth you would see a flat area where its circled in red below which is not really desirable..

so vl400 are you saying that the same as the sensor tip regardless of the diameter of the wheel. is there also a thread on using a similar setup but for dfus? and entirely get rid of the dizzy