pcmhacking.net

I also use it in my pc watercooling loop, filtered rainwater with 5 drops of liquid utopia and 1.5ml's of tectaloy hi load red. Change water every 6months and block's and pipes are always spotless.

The1 wrote:what's everyone use atm?

Ive always used "Tectaloy High Load Red" it's the only one that i could find that is simple, has Anti corrosion and has the most Ethylene Glycol 60+ % without buying a tin of "Water" being labeled as "Super coolant" lol, with the cooler thermostat and a good working cooling system ive found with mine i only really need it in there for anti corrosion. Though im not doing any racing to heat it up like some of you are.

http://www.tectaloy.com/tectaloy_concen ... adred.html

http://www.tectaloy.com/Hi%20Load%20Red ... 202012.pdf

Mine is prob a 30% mix of that with filtered tank water.

There's also handy tables in this wiki about achieving the boiling point or freezing point you want.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ethylene_glycol

I just use regular ethyl glycol at 60% or so, pov 25mm alloy rad and 91ºc stat.

I find it runs too cold, never get above 80 and winter I run low 70s. Don't know how to make it run hotter??

ive found mine with the mix i have run's at 80c even at -6c on the way to work, just few extra min's to get there. low 70's sounds like thermostat might be stuck open a bit?

vlad01 wrote:
I just use regular ethyl glycol at 60% or so, pov 25mm alloy rad and 91ºc stat.

I find it runs too cold, never get above 80 and winter I run low 70s. Don't know how to make it run hotter??

I'd say the thermostat is stuffed. I put a newish one in the missus car that I had sitting around and it wouldn't heat up, put a new one in and it sits exactly where it should now (82° C).

Both my V6's run 82° C thermostats with the tune modified so the thermo fan comes on earlier and the cars never ever get hot. Not even with very spirited driving.

Just have a look at those V8 supercars around Bathurst, they run cool as, only when they get great big dirty plastic bags in the radiator inlet do they ever get hot when running in fresh air and even then they didn't get to hot (HRT advertised that fact for years how well there oil and coolant withstood that event).

I run a 82°C thermostat in the Gemini with the tectaloy green stuff, pretty much don't care about anti freeze just use it for the corrosion protection ... never really had any issues with the engine overheating, in the staging lanes or anything and when racing probably not long enough to get it too hot anyways ... that said it does take a lot longer to cool in summer as you'd expect. i'm running a standard Torana 2 core radiator in the Gemini so its nothing huge!

I had very good results with an alloy radiator in the Torana with the ecotec, VS fan was on nearly half the time it was with the copper one, I ended up putting the 90°C or whatever it was thermostat into it to get the heater working better in winter and I also found economy improvements like that, radiator was a VL 5ltr unit and I ran the same tectaloy green.

immortality wrote:

vlad01 wrote:
I just use regular ethyl glycol at 60% or so, pov 25mm alloy rad and 91ºc stat.

I find it runs too cold, never get above 80 and winter I run low 70s. Don't know how to make it run hotter??

I'd say the thermostat is stuffed. I put a newish one in the missus car that I had sitting around and it wouldn't heat up, put a new one in and it sits exactly where it should now (82° C).

Both my V6's run 82° C thermostats with the tune modified so the thermo fan comes on earlier and the cars never ever get hot. Not even with very spirited driving.

Just have a look at those V8 supercars around Bathurst, they run cool as, only when they get great big dirty plastic bags in the radiator inlet do they ever get hot when running in fresh air and even then they didn't get to hot (HRT advertised that fact for years how well there oil and coolant withstood that event).

tried like 3 new stats and also confirmed it with a thermal couple in the stat outlet and sure enough it runs as I said, too cold. takes 30min+ of driving in winter to warm up and never quite gets there.

The VR on the other hand reaches operating temp in 10 min and is way hotter.

The only thing I can think of is that I have no condenser in the front so the rad get full blast cold air with no restriction.

vlad01 wrote:

immortality wrote:

vlad01 wrote:
I just use regular ethyl glycol at 60% or so, pov 25mm alloy rad and 91ºc stat.

I find it runs too cold, never get above 80 and winter I run low 70s. Don't know how to make it run hotter??

I'd say the thermostat is stuffed. I put a newish one in the missus car that I had sitting around and it wouldn't heat up, put a new one in and it sits exactly where it should now (82° C).

Both my V6's run 82° C thermostats with the tune modified so the thermo fan comes on earlier and the cars never ever get hot. Not even with very spirited driving.

Just have a look at those V8 supercars around Bathurst, they run cool as, only when they get great big dirty plastic bags in the radiator inlet do they ever get hot when running in fresh air and even then they didn't get to hot (HRT advertised that fact for years how well there oil and coolant withstood that event).

tried like 3 new stats and also confirmed it with a thermal couple in the stat outlet and sure enough it runs as I said, too cold. takes 30min+ of driving in winter to warm up and never quite gets there.

The VR on the other hand reaches operating temp in 10 min and is way hotter.

The only thing I can think of is that I have no condenser in the front so the rad get full blast cold air with no restriction.

The job of the thermostat is to restrict flow to maintain a minimum temperature regardless of how cool the radiator is. If the thermostat is working as you say then the only other way for the engine to run to cold would be that the hot coolant is bypassing the thermostat. Is the heater tap working correctly? If it's stuck open it might explain why your having issues getting the engine up to temp.

Which V6 are you running? The older Buick V6 engines have a double bypass, they have a short hose that goes from the intake manifold directly to the water pump, this allows the coolant to circulate through the block when the engine is cold and the thermostat is closed. On the ecotecs this has been deleted because they use a 4 hose heater tap arrangement which also acts as a bypass, so when the heater tap is closed it still allows the coolant to circulate from the intake manifold directly back to the water pump.

On my VN, I blocked the short hose from the manifold to the water pump and she heats up nice and quick now, just like the ecotec does, the heater bypass still allows coolant to flow and the heater works mint

All stock setup as per VP and all working properly. Checked all you mentioned many times. In summer and warmer times of the year I have no probs.

could be all dodgy stats? as I had a few stats fail out of the box for my some of my family member's fords. All were Trico brand as like in my VP, had a lot of drama with trico stuff before like oil pressure switches fail and leak (new one every 6-12 months).

Could try to get a genuine one and see it that helps?

I only ever use Trident thermostats and radiator caps except I use CPC radiator caps on V6 models with the plastic end tanks.

I don't know why or what, but its been getting cooler gradually over a few years.

Might even be with the state of the engine that its struggling to even generate enough heat?