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mang time!

Go Vlad

Dumpy lol

Finally the cruise control works! turned out to be intermittent brake switches so I swapped them out for another pair and it works flawlessly now. They just happen to work when I was checking them with the meter and only when the car was vibrating while driving were they not working. What a bastard!


Installed the rear raised spring insulators. 12mm raise was perfect!. has a tiny amount of rake now and looks slightly lower than stock. Between stock and FE2 which is a nice height for around these shit roads.


Also with the tune now having less timing on the high load areas and a little more in the light areas the engine runs much better, more drivable and a fair bit more power than before. It really does go well! The acceleration above 80Km/h is something else. Can't wait to get it better dialed in on the dyno though I feel it won't need much tuning really.

Exhaust is done now and no more clunks on the diff.


Had 2 other issues which I have mostly solved. One was a few coolant leaks, all the hoses came loose from the first few heat cycles so I re-tightened them. The timing cover hose and the rear bypass were so loose they moved on the fittings They were tight when I first installed them. Bit of a common theme I found with new hoses, you need to tighten them again after a few runs as the rubber softens and squishes out.



The other issue I found was on hard right turns the steering went funny and bound up a little at a certain spot. I found its the one stock engine mount I have on the driver side is allowing the engine to lift by 20mm from lateral g force and is lifting the headers straight into the steering column bolt. I have made a mod to the bolt by removing 5mm from the end to gain extra room but the ultimate fix will be to get another tuff mount for the driver side as they only allow single mm movement, stock ones just move too much. I checked and in the resting position there is quite a bit of room, it wasn't until I jacked the engine up 20mm or so that it started to contact the bolt, a surprising amount of movement really. There is a mark on the header tube where it made contact so that is how I knew it was in that area I had to look.

There is also a mark under the header where it has compressed down too much and contacted the steering rack, about 10mm of space at rest so another reason to get a solid mount. So the total range of movement must be 30mm or more for both marks to have happen lol.


This is the bolt I made shorter and it def added some extra room. Still long enough for the lock nut to do it's thing and I put loctite on it as well just to be sure.


exhaust now looks like this and it sounds great, no more bark to it and much more quiet. Can actually hear the engine and drive train do it's thing now



It was filthy so I gave it the first wash. Was covered in fine dust and sand from the dirt driveway and bugs all over the front.

It sure did wonders! looks better than ever.

that is bloody beautiful vlad. good work.

yeah its crazy bling now. I had a lot of paint dust on it too which wasn't visible but made it look more dull. Now it looks like it just rolled out of the paint booth.

i was trying very hard to educate my daughter on mint lastnight without the profanity ...

I kept hearing some intermittent metallic rattle coming from the parcel shelf. Found what it was, it was the jack sliding around in its holder even though it was winched as tight as it would go. Seems to slide around at a light press with the finger and it made the noise I was hearing. So to stop it slipping about I made some rubber pads to allow it to grip the holder. Now when I push on it it no longer moves and rattles.

Added the mounting tabs I made for the gearbox and the WB gear.


Removed the fake WB sensor while I was at it and installed a genuine one I got from big G.



The tabs also take the standard 4 wire O2 plug clip so I just clipped that plug on the fist tab and cabled tied the rest of it on the rear tab. Nice and neat and out of the way now.